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| Two Women Grocery Shopping (ca 1989) source National Cancer Institute |
Short-Term Food Storage
For a short-term event, three days to two weeks, buying more of the food that you normally eat is the best way to prepare. This food should be the boxed, bottled, bagged, and canned foods your family normally eats; such as macaroni & cheese, pasta or rice side dishes, and crackers; pasta sauces in glass jars, peanut butter, and mustard or ketchup; and canned food such as fruits, soups, and meats.
Canned, Bottled, Boxed, and Bagged Food
If you live in earthquake country, I caution you and your family against using glass jars, for your emergency food supply, an earthquake could break some or all of your glass jars. Plus, it would be another mess to clean up.
While you are making a list of the canned, bagged, bottled, and boxed food you and your family will eat, I want you to think about how you are going to cook this food? Are you going to heat the food? Do you need water to prepare the food? How are you going to clean up afterwards?
For a short 3-day emergency, paper plates, napkins, plastic utensils and cups, and other picnic supplies might be a good idea. You'll need to have enough for each person to have a clean set of utensils for each meal, this includes plates. To save on cups, write the person's name on the cup and have everyone reuse their cup. Make sure to have extra cups, kids and some adults seem to always throw their cups away.
If you are going to need water to prepare the food, you will need to add to your water supplies. An example is Mac & Cheese. It takes 6 cups of water, according to the directions, to make. That is 6 more cups of potable water you will need to store. If you are going to wash the plates and utensils, you will need even more potable water.
You can probably get away with eating directly out of the can or box for three days, but warm meals will be needed during the winter.
There are many ways of heating your food. If you have barbecued, cooked over a fire, or have a wood stove, you can heat your emergency food for eating. Remember, you will need fuel to last during the emergency you are planning for.
Charcoal must be kept dry, same with wood. With wood, you will also need kindling. Propane lasts as long as the container, but you will need a propane stove or grill. Liquid fuels, such as Coleman gas, are flammable. Store your gas and liquid fuels away from the house. Lastly, remember the matches.
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Kitchen and Book Matches Stored in an U.S. Military Ammo Can
I put my matches, about 2500 strike-on-the-box matches, in a .30 caliber ammo can this protect the matches from humidity, and if they ignite, the ammo can keeps the fire contained.
Cooking inside the house can be dangerous. Do Not, Don’t, Never use a charcoal stove inside the house, other enclosed building, or tent. The burning charcoal produces carbon monoxide (CO) this stuff is deadly.
Lastly, don't let the list of things keep you from preparing for a short-term emergency because you probably already have all the needed stuff, except for the extra food.
Medium-Term Food Storage
Preparing to have food for a longer event, two weeks to three months, is a matter of storing more canned, bottled, and boxed food, but you can't put this amount of food in a box and forget it. You will need to start rotating your food.
Medium-Term Food, Stored on Shelves
There are a few ways of rotating your storage food. One method is to buy all the food at once and put it on your shelves in the basement, pantry, or other easily accessible place. When you need something, like a can of pears, you go to the store and buy a can of pears. Go down to the basement, take a can of pears off the shelf, and put the new can that you bought in the back. This insures you always have fresh canned food, if there is such a thing as fresh canned food.
This method insures that you have food now; additionally, this method also insures that you have food that you eat, but it has at least one problem. Most people don't have an extra $500 to immediately drop on food plus their normal food bill.
A variation of the above method is to buy one or two extra of the canned and boxed foods you normally eat every time you go to the store. Put the extra food on the shelf and rotate as mentioned. This method allows you and your family to slowly build a food stockpile for an event.
Another method of rotating your food is to build special shelves. These shelves are a series of ramps. As a can is removed, all of the cans immediately roll one spot down the ramps. If your grocery store has the new Campbell's soup displays, open up the display and observe. Some refrigerators have soda can dispensers with the ramps. Just use a can, then buy another can and add to the top of the ramp as needed.
This method is OK, but you have to know how many cans a set of ramps hold, and it wastes a little space. Each set of cans needs its own supports for the ramp, more money and more complicated to build.
To save money, I watch for sales and stock up. My partner and I also buy store brand products instead of the major name brands. Be careful, some store brands taste slightly different from the national brands of food.
Some people will tell you to buy your food in bulk at the warehouse store, I usually don't recommend this because you have to pay extra money up front for membership; the sizes of cans could be too big, wasting food; and you and your family might not like the food.
Another thing to possibly avoid, remember the opinions, is MREs. Meals Ready to Eat are specialized meals developed for the military. They have greatly improved since the meals first came out; however, you have to like them. Plus, at about the same price as two cans of fruit, two cans of vegetables, and two cans of tuna, you get one MRE. MREs are expensive but convenient.
Long-Term Food Storage
If you have decided to prepare for a longer event; such as hyper-inflation, civil or nuclear war, or a multi-year economic emergency, this section is for you and your family.
Storing enough food to last a year or longer is going to take some preparation on your part; additionally, you are going to spend some money. You and your family are going to have to make many decisions, such as: What type of food to store?; How much food to store?; How to store the long-term food?; and many more.
The Latter-day Saints (the Mormons), as a group, are probably the experts on storing food for a long-term emergency. They have many quotes, teachings, and other recorded lectures on the importance of storing food. As individuals, the record isn't so good, so don't expect an individual Latter-day Saint or their family to have any food storage.
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White Rice from the Latter-day Saints’ Distribution Center
The Mormons command their members to store a year supply of food. They have central storehouses, called Bishop Storehouses, where members and nonmembers may purchase their food. If you know any Latter-day Saints that are willing to help you, you are in luck. The available food is centered on the basic four. Basically, the Latter-day Saints store wheat, sugar, salt, and dried-milk.
Heed Ms. Tate's warnings in "Seven Mistakes in Food Storage."
If you don't know any Mormons, you are going to have to do this on your own. The Mormons formerly used only #10 steel cans; the cans hold a gallon of food product. The Mormons started to switch to mylar bags placed in cardboard boxes in the late 1990s.
Both containers have their advantages and disadvantages. Steel cans are rodent proof, but they rust. Mylar is rust-proof, but the bags don't resist rodents very well. The steel can method also requires bulky cans and a special machine to seal the can, additionally; the can sealing machine can be expensive.
Because of these extra expenses, I am going to write about using mylar bags and food-grade 5-gallon bucket for you food storage program. I like this method. If you want different methods of storing your food, read Alan Hagan's "Prudent Food Storage FAQ version 4.0" for other options.
First, you need to order your mylar bags, oxygen absorbers, and 5-gallon buckets. I use new buckets because I only have a local source for new buckets. These buckets are #2 HDPE plastic, food-grade buckets. Supposedly food-grade and non-food-grade buckets use a different mold releasing agent when the bucket is manufactured.
Just so you know; a mold releasing agent is a chemical the manufacturer apply to the equipment to make it easier to remove the bucket from the equipment after the bucket is made
It is OK to use used-buckets. The rules for using used-buckets for food storage are the same as water storage, clean and only had food items in them.
Second, you have to buy your food. There are different places to buy your food. Whole food stores, organic-food stores, feed stores, warehouse stores, and ethnic-food stores are a few of the places to buy food. Depending on your source of food will depend on if you have to pay any extra shipping cost.
Whole food and organic-food stores will have a variety of grains and beans fit for human consumption. Their products will range from organically-grown grains and beans to traditional farm-grown grains and beans. Warehouse stores may have only one type of grain and one type of bean. The feed store usually must order grains fit for human consumption, and an ethnic-food store will only have bulk food specific to that ethnic group. Call or visit to ask about their policy on ordering and availability of food.
When you are putting up your own bulk food, you have to plan in advance. All of the materials must be on hand before you get your food. Food in paper sacks is a poor storage container, but an emergency might dictate your family purchasing the food before the canning supplies.
Needless to say, I would rather have three 50-pound sacks of rice and beans and no canning supplies during a food emergency then all of the canning supplies and no food.
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Four Small Mylar Bags made from a Large Bag
Next, you have to decide if you want your food in big mylar bags or little mylar bags. If you decide little bags, you will need to cut up a large mylar bags to make smaller bags. To make a big bag into smaller bags: take a big mylar bag and fold in half. Cut along the fold. Fold and cut as needed to make smaller bags.
Once you are finished cutting, you need to seal the edges of the bag. Make sure to leave one edge unsealed.
To seal, take an electric clothes iron, set on medium to high, and iron the edge, flip over and iron the edge again. I usually iron quarter-inch seams. This is an easy skill, but it takes a little practice.
When using small mylar bags, I fill all the bags first with food. I put in one or two 300cc oxygen absorbers, and then seal the bag with the clothes iron. Then I put the sealed bags in a box or 5-gallon bucket.
For large bags, I put the bag in the 5-gallon bucket then fill with food. I put in four 500cc oxygen absorbers, push some of the air out then seal the bag with the iron. Once you open the bag of oxygen absorbers, you have to move quickly because the oxygen absorber will start to absorb oxygen.
When I pack food, I always have all the food; I am doing that day, placed in mylar bags first. Then I open the oxygen absorber's bag and put in the absorbers, push the air out, then seal. If you have two irons and a helper, it goes a lot quicker.
I usually get 35 pounds of wheat, rice, and sugar; 50 pounds of salt; and 25 pounds of beans in their own separate buckets. I put my beans in smaller mylar bags before I put them in the buckets. That’s the reason why I only have 25-pounds of beans in a bucket.
For all my food in mylar bags, I label the top of the bag, where I sealed the bag, with the item's name. An example is "Black Beans." Before I seal the bucket, I write the name of the item and how many pounds are in the bucket, on the lid. An example is "Black Beans, 25 lbs." Once I seal the bucket, I place a label with the item's name, the weight, the package date, and the expiration date on the side of the bucket. An example is "Black Beans, 25 pounds, Nov 2008, Nov 2038."
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Three Styles of Bucket Openers and a Rubber Mallet
If you use a bucket opener, you are able to reuse the bucket and lid. You could probably reuse the bucket and lid even if you have carefully used a knife and screwdriver to open the lid.
Bucket openers or lid lifters come in plastic and metal. I have given plastic openers to friends and family. I have about 5, 3 plastic and 2 metal lid lifters. (Remember P.A.C.E.)
Storing Long-Term Food in Buckets
All of the food gets stored in a cool, dry, and dark place, the basement. If you don't have a basement, you will have to get creative in your storage. There are many creative ways, a table made of buckets, just add a table cover; under the bed as a bed frame; or staked along a wall with a curtain covering the stack.
One outside storage method I have seen was called a pallet root cellar. A hole about 4-feet wide, 4-feet long, and 6 to 7 feet deep is dug. A standard pallet is placed in the bottom of the hole then four pallets are placed, standing up, on the sides of the hole. Next, the long-term bulk food (usually stored in plastic buckets) is stacked on the bottom pallet, filling the space between the four pallets. Another pallet is then placed, resting on the four standing pallets, this pallet supports the dirt you will cover the hole with when finished.
Whatever you do; don't put your food storage in a hot place like the garage, attic, or outside storage shed.
Reducing Your Costs
Now there are ways to reduce your cost. You can use animal or feed-grade food. You can omit the mylar bag, and use plastic or metal 55-gallon open head drums for your storage containers.
If you use animal feed, make sure you are getting animal feed with nothing mixed in. No molasses, no minerals, no vitamins, no mixes of different grains, or cracked grain. Cracked grains will not last as long as whole grains.
Do Not, Don’t, Never purchase seed for your food storage. Seed is treated with chemicals to resist rot, fungus, and other nasties. These chemicals will harm or kill you.
Lastly, omitting the mylar bag in the 5-gallon bucket will save your family money, but using this method will allow water vapor to enter the food. Yes, it takes a little while, but the food will not last as long.
Storing Long-Term Food in Bulk
Another method of storing long-term food is to use plastic or metal drums. Just like plastic barrels, there are two types of metal drums, open-head and closed-head. A closed-head metal drum has two small holes in the top. Liquids usually come in a closed-head drum. The top of an open-head metal or plastic drum is totally removable. The drum’s cover has a grove and a seal that seals the drum tight with a locking clamp.
To use a cleaned open-head drum, open the top and put your sealed mylar bags inside. When filled or finished, close the drum using the provided clamp. Just like the water barrel, these weight 350 pounds (159 kilos) or more when full.
OK, you have 350 pounds (159 kilos) of wheat, 150 pounds (68 kilos) of rice, 125 pounds (57 kilos) of various beans, 70 pounds (32 kilos) of sugar, 35 pounds (16 kilos) of salt, and 356 multivitamins for every man, woman, and child in your family. What do you do with it?
Using Your Long-Term Food
Eat it! You have to get use to using these foods. You have to use these foods in recipes. Learn the spices that your family likes then add the spices to your food storage. You have to learn to use the machines needed to use the food, and buy the wheat mill and the corn mill, the pasta maker, and etc. The local library is a great source for information on baking and cooking using whole food such as wheat, corn, rice, and beans.
You will also have to learn how to use different cooking methods for preparing your family’s food using solar ovens, slow cookers, pressure cookers or canners, hay boxes, and masonry ovens just to name a few because electricity and propane may not be available.
Dehydrated and Freeze-Dried Long-Term Food
All of the previous advice also applies to the dehydrated and freeze-dried foods that are available. As far as I know, Mountain House is the largest supplier of these dehydrated and freeze-dried foods. They sell from their website and they have many retailers. You have to shop around to find the best deals. Different retailers have different prices for the same product, some include shipping and some don't. Plus, the different dealers will have sales, on different weeks or months.
Just like MREs, these foods can be expensive, but the freeze-dried foods, sold in #10 cans, have a 25 to 30 year shelf life. So if you want, you can feed a family of four for about the price of a used economy-size sedan.
Long-Term Food Security
For really long-term food security, you will need to learn how to grow, raise, and preserve your own food. Once again the local library has a wide variety of books on gardening, raising sheep, chicken, goats, and other animals for food. The library also has books on organic gardening, making compost, and other chemical-free vegetable and fruit growing techniques.
So start your food list, give some folks a call, and check out a few books from the library on cooking with whole foods, intensive gardening, and raising small livestock, so your family may eat during an event.
Appendix A: Common Mistakes
When it comes to food storage, families make many mistakes, minor and major. The minor mistakes are usually the ones your mother or father taught you. They range from incorrect freezer and refrigerator temperatures, using oversized containers, wasting leftovers, reusing old food containers for storage, and as one writer said ‘warehouse overload.’
Warehouse overload is almost a major mistake because some preppers think they need the large can of baked beans, as an example, for their food storage. They purchase the #10 can thinking their family will eat all the food before it spoils, but they forget: what happens if there is no refrigeration during an event?
Another almost major mistake is forgetting to use the family’s freezer during an event. For some emergencies, such as short-term power outages, the freezer is kept closed to preserve the frozen food until the power returns. If the electrical power may be out for an extended period, the food in the freezer is quickly eaten by your family, preserved by canning, salting, or making jerky, or a generator is purchased to provide limited power to run the freezer.
For other events, such as an economic emergency, electrical power will be available to run the freezer, as long as you pay the electric bill, so your family can stock up on frozen foods. To do this, the freezer is filled with frozen foods, bought on sale or at lower prices. As food prices increase, you and your family prepare meals using the stored frozen food, first; saving your long-term food storage, just in case, food becomes unavailable at any price.
The major mistakes most preppers haven’t been taught by their families, but thanks to the internet, we can read about them in an excellent article by Vicki Tate, at Backwoods Home Magazine. Some of these mistakes are failing to store a variety of food, extended staples, vitamins, and easy to prepare food. Ms. Tate also includes failing to have a balance in your food storage, using improper containers, and not using your food in your regular meals.
Even if your family only stores a three-day supply of food, you need to read and heed Ms. Tate’s warning (I have provided a link, at the “Prepper: Surviving the Tough Times Ahead” blog) because over time, you and your family will invest hard earned cash on food that shouldn’t be wasted.
Appendix B: Other Information
Can Openers
If you are going to have canned food in you emergency food storage, make sure you have enough manual can openers to last the duration of the event plus one more can opener, just in case you break the other can openers.
Primary, Alternate, and Contingency Manual Can Openers
Please, don't plan to use P-38s or P-51s can openers as your primary, alternate, or contingency can openers. If you don't believe me, buy a P-38 (the can opener not the pistol) and use it to open all of your cans for a few days. However, the P-51 can opener is an OK opener as your emergency, emergency, emergency opener.
Opening a Can without a Can Opener
First, find a rough piece of concrete, like a sidewalk or driveway.
Second, turn the can upside down then rub the top of the can on the concrete. Rub until you have worked through the seal on the top of the can.
Be very careful as you rub the can on the concrete, you don't want to unexpectedly open the can spilling the contents on the ground.
Once you have rubbed through the can’s seal, carefully turn the can right side up then use your finger nails or a pointy object to pry the lid off the can.
Just so you know; someone else worked this idea out.
Frozen Foods
Like most families, we have a chest-type freezer holding a couple months of frozen food. During some events, the freezer can be an asset or a liability. If it is a short event, like a power outage, we will keep the freezer door closed and eat the food in our refrigerator, first. As the emergency continues, we will start to quickly eat the food in our freezer.
My partner and I have talked about possibly sharing the food with neighbors, but they also have well stocked freezers. Another option we have talked about is purchasing a generator rated to power the freezer and refrigerator.
For longer term events, like a slow economic collapse, the freezer will be an asset allowing us to purchase large amounts of food and storing it in the freezer, as prices increase making food unavailable. Needless to say, having reliable power will be a priority for this technique to insure the frozen food doesn’t spoil.
Starting a Planned Buying Plan
You may have heard of dollar cost averaging. It is a financial term. You buy the same dollar amount of stocks or bonds every month.
Using the Latter-day Saint's Distribution centers or another food storage retailer, you could start a plan for buying long-term storage food, such as wheat, beans, and oats.
Using the plan, you would buy one or two case of long-term storage food every month, until you have the amount of food you need. You could buy more or less food depending on your desired amount of food storage.
This idea can even be used at the local grocery store. You set aside say $50 a payday to buy the extra canned, boxed, and bottled food you and your family normally eats. You do this every payday, until you have the extra amount of food you have determined to store for emergencies.
Rotating Your Food Storage with Charity
I would like to eat all of our food and rotate the food that way, but we have a problem in my family. We don't eat all of the food; I have in storage. Instead of throwing the food out, I donate the excess food, to a local food pantry.
If you itemize on your taxes, you can take some of you food storage off of you taxes when you donate it.
Insuring Adequate Nutrition during an Emergency
In an emergency, you will need to make sure that you and your family are eating right. One way of doing that is taking a daily multivitamin.
Multi-Vitamins to Supplement Your Family’s Food Storage
From my research, an inexpensive multivitamin is as good as an expensive one. The secret is to break the multivitamin into little pieces so it will be easily digested by your body. Of course, you and your partner will be able to handle the ‘nasty’ taste from chewing the vitamin once or twice. Your children probably won’t, so you might want to stock children’s brand vitamins.
I learned this little known fact from a buddy who empties port-a-potties. He tells me; he finds a lot of hard vitamins, like calcium, in the bottom of the holding tank when he cleans them.
State and County Extension Offices
Another internet resource, paid for by your taxes, is the state extension services. Go to your favorite search engine and type in your state then extension service. An example is "Utah State Extension Service."
You will have many publications specific for you state. If you don't get what you want, you can contact the local county extension office for help. They will provide help on selecting the best varieties of fruits and vegetables, gardening tips for your area, money management, business information, and much more. Some states even offer a program called Master Gardener to assist you in your gardening efforts.
By the way, on the internet, no one asks you what state or country you're from, so feel free to look at other states for more information about a variety of subjects.
Appendix C: Storing Food using Mylar bags and Oxygen Absorbers
The least expensive method of storing long-term food is self-packaging the food, such as hard red winter wheat, dried beans, quick oats, and other whole foods. The easiest place to do this is at the Latter-day Saints’ Bishop’s Storehouses.
Latter-day Saints, better known as Mormons, have regional storehouses that allow non-members and members of the church to package long-term food for their families. These Bishop’s storehouses use #10 metal cans and small one-gallon mylar bags, to package the food. If you know some members of the Latter-day Saints, you can ask them to sponsor your family’s trip to their storehouse to can food. If you don’t know any Latter-day Saints or are uncomfortable contacting the Bishop’s Storehouse, your family can package your own long-term food.
Making Smaller Bags
There are a couple of ways of obtaining smaller mylar bags, for packaging your food. You and your family can order small one-gallon bags from the Latter-day Saints, or you can make them from larger bags.
Even though I covered this earlier, I would like to cover it again, with a little more detail.
Collect the Needed Supplies
First, you’re going to need some items, a clothes iron, a pair of scissors, and a piece of cloth, like a towel, and a large mylar bag. The mylar bag in this picture is a ‘large’ 20 inches wide x 30 inches tall mylar bag. I purchased it from a well-known internet source, Walton Feed.
Cut the mylar bag in half, for half bags
Next, fold the mylar bag in half. You don’t have to give the bag a sharp crease, just one that allows you a general idea of the halfway mark. After you do that, cut the bag along the crease, using scissors. If you don’t want to make any smaller bags, you would iron, using the clothes iron, a ¼ to ½ inch seam around the mylar bag, leaving one side open, to fill the bag later. These half bags will hold a little over 10 pounds of food.
Cut the half bags, in half, for quarter bags
If you want smaller bags, to hold about five pounds of food, you need to cut the two half bags, in half, to make quarter bags. These quarter bags will be about the same size, as the mylar bags; your family can purchase from the Latter-day Saints.
Iron around three sides of the mylar bag
When I make smaller mylar bags, I use a batch process. First, I will cut all the bags, to the preferred size, then I will iron three sides of the bag, insuring I leave one end open, usually the smaller end. To iron the bags’ seams, I use an ironing board or a towel placed on a hard, flat surface.
Different Sized Mylar Bags
Needless to say, depending on your needs, you and your family can cut the mylar bags to different sizes and shapes to fit your needs. Just so you know; the four bags pictured above hold the same amount of food, about five pounds.
Filling mylar bags
Once your family has bought or made enough mylar bags, you will need to assemble the long-term food and other packaging supplies.
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Five mylar bags, one plastic bucket and 25 pounds of dried beans
When my family and I self-package our long-term food, we use an assembly line process, stopping to check each step. These ‘quality’ control check insures we have completed each step before proceeding to the next step of the process. These checks are important to make sure the food has a long storage-life.
The first step is to fill the mylar bags with food; I do this three ways depending on how I bought the food. If I bought the long-term food in bulk, I weight or measure the food by volume. To weight the whole foods, I use a common bathroom scale, to insure a consistent weight for each package. If I pack the food by volume, I use a 2 liter measuring cup to put the same amount of food in each mylar bag. If I buy the food prepackaged, like one and five-pound bags of dried beans from the grocery store, I count the number of packages, open the plastic bag (the food came in), and count the number of empty bags, as I add it to a mylar bag. Once all the bags are full, one of the children will add oxygen absorbers to the bag.
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Sealing the Mylar Bags with a Household Iron
Once the oxygen absorbers are added, my partner or one of the older children will seal the mylar bag using a clothes iron set on high-medium to low-high. To seal the mylar bag, the bag’s top is laid flat on a folded bath towel than the bag is ironed closed with a ½ inch seam, across the top. The folded towel allows the top edge of the full bag to lie flat, making it easier to iron the bag close.
After the bag is ironed closed, one of us write the contents on the top seam. Once I have enough sealed bags, we will put the full bags in a storage container. We use 5-gallon plastic buckets. You could use cardboard boxes. We also write the contents of the bag on the storage container.
Oxygen Absorbers
Oxygen absorbers are important in long-term food storage; they absorb oxygen removing one of the critical elements for vermin to live and food to spoil. Oxygen absorbers come in various sizes, usually 300cc, 500cc, and 1000cc. The higher the cc the more oxygen it will absorb. For small bags, about one-gallon size, you should use one or two 300cc oxygen absorbers. For large, 5-gallon mylar bags, you should use four 500cc or two 1.000 cc absorbers. Of course, you can ‘waste’ oxygen absorbers by placing too many in a mylar bag filled with food.
‘Problems’ with Oxygen Absorbers
As I said, oxygen absorbers are designed to remove oxygen from the air sealed in the mylar bag. The contents of the oxygen absorber usually iron and a little salt, relatively quickly, converts the oxygen into iron oxide (rust) removing the oxygen.
If you don’t use enough of the proper sized oxygen absorbers, all of the oxygen will not be absorbed. There is the possibility the food will spoil or insects will continue to live eating your food, something you won’t know until you and your family open the package.
Since air is made up of various gases, mainly oxygen and nitrogen, once the oxygen absorber removes all the oxygen, it will stop working. Not a problem; unless you or a family member sucked most of the air out of the mylar bag before sealing with the clothes iron.
The bag will collapse crushing you food. Again, not a problem unless it is rice, wheat, or another whole food with sharp ends or edges. These small sharp ends may puncture the bag in a gazillion places, allowing air to enter the bag.
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