Monday, April 15, 2013

Survival Vest


Welcome Preppers and Survivalists,

After I got out of the Army, my folks suggested/wanted me to be a cop. They said it would be a good secure job.

I listened and told them "No way! I just spent part of my life with a target on my chest, and I wasn't going to spend the rest of my life with a 'shoot me' badge on my chest."

So, why am I telling you this?

Because wearing a military-style survival vest might put a target on your chest during a disaster.

Think about it, for a minute.

So what's a prepper to do?

Wear a vest! Just don't buy one that screams "SURVIVALIST"


My wife bought me this lined vest, from Duluth Trading Co., as a present for Christ's Mass. It has two hand warmer pockets on the outside. The pockets have little flaps that will help keep my gloves in my pockets when I'm not wearing them.

Above is a picture of the vest's inside. It has two big pockets (bottom, both sides) with zippers, two pockets (right side, top) with velcro tabs over the pockets, and three pockets (left side, top) two small ones and one large pocket.
Using the 3 to 5 Rules of Living, let's look at what might go in the vest.
Shelter - two to four large contractor garbage bags, 25 feet of 550 cord (large bottom pocket)
Water - two large freezer-style zipper bags (Ziplock bags) and a small water filter (large bottom pocket)
Food - a couple of snack bars, a few peppermints, a couple pieces of gum (top large pocket)
Protection - a folding knife (top right small pocket)
Fire - fire steel/metal match and some tinder (the other top right small pocket)

Needless to say, you will want to buy a vest that will blend in with your work environment because this vest won't work if you work in a big-city high rise office building.

Link:
Duluth rading Co. - Home
http://www.duluthtrading.com/
Note: Do a search for "Vest"

PS.
This is the type of vest I was talking about, from the Cowboy Action Shooting prospective, in Week Fifteen - Kit.

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Military Skills - Rigging Your Gear: LBE


Staff Sgt. Gary Bruce Takes aim at a Passing Convoy
during a small arms ambush exercise
for the Combat Support Training Exercise-91 (ca 2012)
photograph by
Spc. Andrew Orillion


More then likely, you and I will die peacefully in our beds, and all that military gear, load bearing equipment (LBE), rucksacks, rifles, military manuals, and ... is less important then being financially prepared with a balanced set of preps.

So why am I writing this article? I might be wrong, and this is what I'm interested in, for now.

So lets get started.


As a prepper/survivalist you and your family may have to take up arms to protect yourselves and your community, so you will need basic military skills.

The first skill I going to write about is rigging your gear.

Now, I will be writing about rigging a set of LBE (Load Bearing Equipment); however you can use these techniques with any gear, just not military equipment.

The first thing you want to do is gather your gear and the supplies you are going to need. For this article (your kit might be different) you will need


- - Gear - -
2 - ammunition pouches
2 - canteen covers
2 - canteens
1 - canteen cup
1 - pistol belt
1 - first-aid pouch
1 - "Y" or "H" harness
1 - butt pack


- - Supplies - -
1 - "Sharp" knife
1 - 550 cord or similar cord
1 - lighter or matches
1 - pair of pliers

Next, you are going to have to make a decision. The decision is whether to remove the metal buckles and clips on your gear or leave them in place. This is your choice.

Me, a former infantryman.

I would remove the metal buckles and clips. In my experience, they dig into your skin, come unbuckled or unclipped at inopportune times, and make noise that can attract unwanted attention.

Note:
Don't let me pressure you into doing this because it's your gear and it (your gear) will work with the buckles and clips intact.

To remove the clips is simple. All you do is open the clips and pull them out. The buckles are a little harder. You will need to take the pliers and bend the buckles to undo them from the straps.

I broke the hook off before spreading the "ears" apart to remove the  metal buckle

Once all the buckles and clips have been take off, we are going to attach all of the gear to the pistol belt.

So, first, you put the pistol belt on and adjust it to your waist size.

Be Warned:
There are two sizes of pistol belt, medium and large. A medium fits up to a 34 inch waist, and a large fits up to a 44 inch waist so make sure you have the proper length. Plus, if you're going to wear a plate carrier or body armour, you need to wear this gear as you adjust the pistol belt.

To adjust the belt, you pull up on the end (see the "teeth") until the "teeth" don't catch on the belt then slid the ends back or forth until the belt is the proper size. To finish adjusting the belt, push the end of the belt down until the "teeth" catch then flatten the belt.

Don't worry about those little sliders between the front and end of the belt, yet. We'll be adjusting them latter.

Now, take the pistol belt off and lay it on the table because we are going to attach the ammunition pouches.

Ok folks, because we might have two different methods (buckles/clips and no buckles and clips) I'm going to explain both.

Buckles and Clips
Position the ammunition pouches and clip the ammunition pouches onto the pistol belt then take a 20 inches (50 centimeters) piece of 550 cord and thread the 550 cord through the webbing on the back of the ammunition pouch. Loop the 550 cord around the pistol belt then thread the 550 cord though the ammunition pouch webbing, again this creates a double wrap  of 550 cord through and around the pistol belt and ammo pouch. Next, I tie the 550 cord using a square knot and two half hitches. (The two half hitches "hold" the square knot) Lastly, I tie the other side of the ammunition pouch using the same method.

You can't see the first of two wraps, but it's there
One side completed. Another side to go

Finished

Removed Buckles and Clips
Position the ammunition pouches then take a 20 inches (50 centimeters) piece of 550 cord and thread the 550 cord through the webbing on the back of the ammunition pouch. Loop the 550 cord around the pistol belt then thread the 550 cord though the ammunition pouch webbing, again this creates a double wrap  of 550 cord through and around the pistol belt and ammo pouch. Next, I tie the 550 cord using a square knot and two half hitches. (The two half hitches "hold" the square knot) Lastly, I tie the other side of the ammunition pouch using 550 cord.

I would like for you to notice the differences between the two methods. One method has the clips, and the other method doesn't.

Now, I know you're wondering why I tie both sides of the ammo pouches even though I have clips.

The reason? The clips may come undone, and the pouch will fall off and get lost, usually when you need them the most. (remember smart cords)

Next, do the other ammunition pouch just like the other.

Next, we're going to do the canteen covers. They are tied the same way as the ammunition pouches. Two loops through the covers and around the pistol belt and tied using a square knot finished with two half hitches.

I would like to take a break and talk to you about placement of the ammo pouches and the canteen covers. The ammunition pouches should be centered on your thighs, about one hand width from the main buckle of the pistol belt. The canteen covers should be about where your back pockets are on your pants.

The breaks over!

Next, you're going to attach the "Y" or "H" harness to the pistol belt. You do it the same way as the ammo pouches and the canteen covers except you're going to double loop through a strap then tie a square knot with two half hitches.

An ammunition pouch with no clips or buckles
Notice, that I loop the 550 cord, for the "Y" or "H" harness, between the two loops for each ammo pouch. The harness straps in the back are just to the side of the canteen covers. This helps distribute the weight of your ammo and water, and it allows you to remove your ammo pouches (if you change to a different weapon) without having to remove the "Y" or "H" harness.

The next step is to attach the butt pack. By now you know what I'm going to write.

Two loops through the butt pack and pistol belt tied with a square knot and finished with two half hitches then do the other side the same way.

Lastly, we are going to attach the first-aid pouch. The pouch will be mounted to the "Y" or "H" harness on the non-firing shoulder. So, if you're left-handed, the pouch goes on the right side. If you're right-handed, the first-aid pouch will go on the left side of the harness.

The first-aid pouch shown open
It is upside down to
allow easy removal of first-aid dressing

Yes, it's tied just like everything else, but the first-aid pouch is tied upside down.

Why?

It's easier to remove the bandage when the pouch is upside down.

Links:
U.S. Calvary - New Issue Pistol Belt
http://www.uscav.com/prod_7684_tabid_548_New+Issue+Pistol+Belt+
Note: U.S. Calvary has extra large belts for a 50 inch waist and an extra-extra large belts for over 50 inch waists.

U.S. Sailing - Square Knot
http://www.videos.sailingcourse.com/square_knot.htm

Animated Knots by Grog - How to Tie Scouting Knots
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexscouting.php

PS.
I finally added some pictures.

And

As always there are pictures that don't fit the narrative, so I have posted them below with some explanations

This picture shows the ammunition pouch and "H" harness tied together with it's original buckles but no clips.
Even though I used a square knot and two half-hitches, you can use any knot that will hold your gear in place. If you are using the clips and buckles.

Notice the rows of wedding on this plate carrier.
The rows of webbing allow you to attach different pouches to the front and back of the carrier. You can use either the "old" metal ALICE clips or the "new" plastic malice clips.
  
On the left is an ammunition pouch using the "old" style of clips to attach to your pistol belt. They can still be used on MOLLE gear like the plate carrier above.
The ammunition pouch on the right uses the "new" style of plastic malice clips. As far as I know, if you're using "old" ALICE gear, the new malice clips will only work on the thin nylon strips found on the rucksack or butt-pack.
 

Friday, April 5, 2013

Preppers, Survivalists, and Military Equipment


Welcome Preppers and Survivalists,

The military is a unique organization when I say unique I mean strange, very strange. First, there are two militaries, there are the non-combat related jobs then there are the combat related job. The non-combat related jobs are the folks that have a 9 to 5 job, kind of. They move supplies, fill out paperwork, repair equipment, treat water, work in hospitals, operate bulldozers, and et cetera. The combat related jobs have folks blowing up stuff, dropping bombs, shooting at people with rifles, machine guns, cannons, 16-inch guns, missiles, ...

You get the idea, killers and non-killers.

Now, both groups use common equipment that they use to survive warfare.

Protective Equipment

The first item I am going to write about is the helmet. There are three types, the M-1 helmet (the steel pot), the PASGT helmet (kelvar or k-pot), and the 3rd generation helmets  (Modular Integrated Communications Helmet, Advance Combat Helmet, and Light Weight Helmet)

The steel pot is a steel shell with a fiberglass liner. It protects a person from shrapnel, pieces of bombs, artillery shells, and hand grenades. A rifle bullet will go right through it. (See the beginning of "Saving Private Ryan") This is the same for the kelvar helmet. It is only though luck that a person survives a rifle shot, to the head, when wearing a k-pot. The  MICH and ACH have only been designed to stop a 9 millimeter round, a handgun round.

The next protective item is body armour. Just like the helmet, there are three generations of modern body armour. OK, there are really four, but I'm not going to include World War One steel plate. The first is the flak vest. It was used from World War Two until the 1980s; the flak vest/jacket was designed to stop shrapnel but not bullets, just like the M-1 helmet. In the late 80s, the military issued the PASGT vest; it is also known as a flak vest. This vest is only designed to stop shrapnel, too. The Interceptor Body Armor, a third generation protective vest, is designed to stop rifle bullets.

So, which one should a prepper buy?

First, you have to ask yourself, do you really need one? Remember, military gear may be inappropriate for preppers because we should be leaving places of danger, not running towards danger.

Next, you have to ask, does my threat analysis require me to have tactical gear such as helmets and body armour?

Lastly, do you have the money? A MICH helmet runs about $400 and a tactical vest start at say $600, plus another $400 for two rifle plates, $1400 for one person. $1400 will buy a lot of food.

Load Carrying Equipment

Just like the name says, this equipment carries a military person's combat gear such as magazines, canteens, and hand grenades. Just like helmets and protective vests, load carrying equipment comes in three generations. The first generation is from World War Two. The next generation is called TA-50, web gear, LBE, or ALICE gear. The next generation is what you see soldiers wearing, today; it's called MOLLE gear.

The World War Two gear is made out of cotton canvas. It is rugged but the gear is more difficult to maintain. The gear will rot, if it is poorly maintained. Plus, it has very little padding and uses metal hooks to hold the pieces together. These metal hooks allow canteens and other gear to unnecessarily flop around.

The TA-50, web gear, LBE, or ALICE gear was also originally made out of canvas, this caused problems during the Vietnam War. About half way through that war, the military transitioned to nylon. As you probably know, nylon will not rot like cotton canvas, and it is lighter in weight. The military also changed the hook attachment system to a metal clip system. The metal clips will prohibit accessories from flopping around, but they will rub on you and cause "hot-spots." Plus, they can unexpectedly open that is the reason for smart-cords and other modifications.

The military currently uses MOLLE gear made out of nylon and other human-made material. MOLLE gear is very modular because the gear uses rows of wedding, sewn to vests and plate carriers, and plastic clips to attach stuff.

So, which one should a prepper buy, ALICE or MOLLE?

I'm going to ask some of the same questions that I did before.

First, you have to ask yourself, do you really need this? Remember, military gear may be inappropriate for preppers because we should be leaving places of danger, not running towards danger. Plus, which is more important, food or gear?

Next, you have to ask, does my threat analysis require me to have tactical gear such as load carrying equipment?

Lastly, you have to ask yourself, how big is your budget? A set of ALICE gear (belt, suspenders, two canteens with carriers, two ammo pouches, and a butt pack will run $35 to $75. A set of MOLLE, the sky is the limit. Just so you know, some quality names are Practical Tactical, Blackhawk, Tactical Tailor, and many others. Just make sure you shop around, and remember, if it's to good to be true, it probably is.


Note: Practical Tactical is going out of business. He is offering a 15% discount on in-stock gear 'til it's gone.


Load carrying equipment is more then LBE or MOLLE; it includes packs, big and small. The World War Two canvas packs are collector items. They are rugged, made of canvas, and uncomfortable because there is little padding in the shoulder straps.

The ALICE nylon rucksacks, medium and large, are rugged and some what comfortable. The medium rucksack has three outside pockets and one inside pocket; it also has webbing on the sides to add one and two quart canteens. The canteens need carriers that can use either the hook system from WW2 or the clips from after the Vietnam War. The large rucksack has basically the same set up, but it has three small pockets just above the three outside pockets. Plus, the large ruck holds a lot more gear and will need a frame because the shoulder straps do not attach directly to the pack like the medium rucksack.

MOLLE-type packs are too numerous to write about. There are small, medium, and large packs. There are probably even extra-large MOLLE packs, but one thing they all have are rows and rows of webbing to attach stuff to the outside of the pack.

So which one for the prepper?

I'm not going to ask any questions, this time, because I am going to make some observations/recommendations to help you make a selection.

First, don't buy a big pack because you will want to fill it up. Try and buy the smallest pack that you can.

Next, stay away from camouflage packs. Buy your pack in a single subdued color such as O.D. green, coyote brown, or gray. Black is an OK color for the city or suburbs, because it seems everyone has a black bag, but not for the wilderness because it won't blend in with a wooded or desert environment.

Lastly, look at your budget because you can spend a lot of money for a MOLLE-type pack you may never use.

Tentage

The military has two types of tents; they are either too small or too big for the prepper. (I'm joking; it just seems that way.) The first is the shelter-half or better known as the pup tent. It is the classic two-person canvas tent. It is rugged and inexpensive, but the shelter half has some problems. You have to crawl into the tent; there is no floor in the tent, it is made of canvas, and you need two halves to use it

Note: I will be writing an article, within the next few months, illustrating how to make shelters with such items as a shelter half, military poncho, or a blue tarp.

The next tents are a little bigger. They are considered squad or crew tents; they hold from 4 to 10 people. They have names like Combat Tent, Extreme Cold Weather Tent, and Crew Tent. These tents are made in a variety of material, and they have a variety of prices, plus, an assortment of styles.

The next size up are the larger tents; these tents can get huge. Some folks call these tents 'walled-tents.' The military calls them GP medium, GP large, Temper tent, to name a few. Unlike the previous tents, these tents are tall enough for a 6 feet tall person to stand straight and not hit their head, except when going through the doorway.

If you are interested in doing more research, you will need to do an internet search for "Military Tents" or "Army Tents," to get you started in your search.

I don't have any specific suggestions. From personal experience, the canvas tents are rugged and will last for a few months when erected. Don't put them away wet; they will mold and stink. Use aluminum or steel tent stakes to hold the tent down. If you are going to hide in the woods, you are going to need a few camouflage nets with the specialized spreaders and poles.

Night Vision

Just like all of the other gear, there are three generations of night vision. Wikipedia says there are five. I'm not counting Gen Zero (Crap) and Gen 3+/Gen 4 (hype)

First Generation (Gen One) night vision is primitive. It really only works on a bright moonlit night. They are limited to scopes, and they are bulky. An example is the PVS-2 night vision scope. The official name is AN/PVS-2 Starlight scope. OK, it's really Scope, Starlight, AN/PVS-2.

A warning: Be careful of the hype. At four to five hundred dollars, make sure (in writing!!!) that you can return them after an inspection period. Make sure you try the night vision gear and return it if it sucks for you. Don't let the salesman tell you it's your fault, send it back immediately!!! Lastly, the military doesn't use this stuff any more for a reason. They suck.

The next is Gen Two night vision gear. The US military used (some military units still use) the AN/PVS-4 Individual Weapon Night Sight and the AN/PVS-5 Night Vision Goggles. The PVS-4 has various reticules (they provided the 'cross hairs' for the scope). Both the PVS-4 and the PVS-5, if I remember correctly, used a special battery to power the gear, but the military soon modified them to use standard AA batteries. These are very good units, but they have problems. The PVS-4 sight is bulky; the goggles will slip on your face. Plus, they won't work in complete darkness.

Be warned: Some folks are selling units that use a different type of battery, instead of AA, to power the PVS-4 sight and the PVS-5 goggles. If you decide to buy one, please make sure you can get a supply of these non-standard batteries for your sight or goggles.

Third generation goggles and sights are awesome, and expensive. The AN/PVS-7 goggles and the AN/PVS-14 monocular/weapon night sight will work in almost complete darkness. They are great, but you have to train with them.

Be warned: Folks are trying to sell inferior models as authentic PVS-7s and PVS-14s. Plus, be careful. Some of the pictures, at a website, may be exaggerations; the night vision gear just turns a black night to green.

Heck, any generation of night vision gear you buy, you will have to train with it. The military commanders thought they could get away from training with these very expensive sights and goggles; they were wrong. They quickly found out that soldiers tripped over trees because they had little or no depth perception. Natural night vision was lost for 30 to 60 minute after using the night vision goggles, and the soldiers just didn't know how to use them.

Sleeping Bags

The military has had many different types of sleeping bags in the last three decades. This section is going to be limited to four of them, the most common available for the prepper.

The Mountain Bag (Bag, Sleeping, Mountain, M1949) is a down and feather mummy-style sleeping bag. It is designed for temperatures as low as 14 degrees Fahrenheit (°F) to as high as 50 °F (-10 degrees Celsius (°C) to 10 °C). If you plan to sleep in 14 °F (-10 °C) weather, you will need to wear long johns, socks, a close fitting hat, and maybe thin gloves to be comfortable. As you get closer to 32 °F (0 °C), the less clothes you will need to wear for extra insulation. At around 50 °F (10 °C), you may want to open the sleeping bag and cover yourself with a poncho liner or thin blanket to avoid overheating while you sleep.

The above general guidelines may not work for you because I was a fit, slim, and exhausted soldier the last time I used a mountain bag.

For arctic conditions, the Mountain Bag would be inserted into the Arctic Sleeping Bag (Bag, Sleeping, Arctic). I have only heard of an arctic bag once. Yep, it was during a trip to Alaska.

The Intermediate Cold Weather sleeping bag (Bag, Sleeping, Intermediate Cold-Weather) was the 1980s replacement for the mountain bag. It has a polyester fill, instead of down and feathers. It is temperature rated down to 15 °F (-9 °C). The guidelines from above for extra clothing also apply for the intermediate sleeping bag.

The Extreme Cold Weather sleeping bag (Bag, Sleeping, Extreme Cold) is a down bag good to temperatures to -20 °F (-28 °C). Don't forget the long johns and other clothing, it will be warmer that way, especially at -20 °F (-28 °C)

All three bags should be covered with a cover. The military called it: Case, Water-repellent, for Bag, Sleeping. It is a cotton cover that protects the outside of the bag from dirt and moisture, not rain. It has eyelets that allowed the cover to be laced to the mountain sleeping bag but not the intermediate or extreme cold weather sleeping bags.

The current sleeping is a system of three pieces, a gore-tex bivy bag, a patrol sleeping bag, and an intermediate cold weather sleeping bag. The bivy bag provides protection from the rain. The patrol sleeping bag uses a synthetic fill good for 50°F to 30°F, and the intermediate cold weather bag can be snapped into the patrol bag for use down to -10°F (if properly dressed in long john, socks, gloves, and a knit skull cap.

So what should a prepper buy?

It will depend on your budget. A mountain bag with a cover runs about $50 and up. An intermediate sleeping bag without a cover can be had for $50, also. An extreme cold weather sleeping bag will set you back $100. The cotton covers run anywhere from $10 to $15.

Buy the cover, if you can afford it, it will help keep the outside of the sleeping bag clean.

Plus, you need to look at what temperatures you plan to be prepared for. If you plan to stay in your home and live in Florida, an extra blanket will probably be fine. In Indiana, outside in the winter, an intermediate might work. I would probably get an extreme cold sleeping bag, just in case. Montana, in the winter, you need an extreme cold weather sleeping bag, period. If you plan to move from place to place by walking, a modular sleeping system, the current US military sleeping bag is recommended.

Lastly, you have to ask yourself: do you really need a surplus military sleeping bag when there are modern civilian sleeping bags that weight less, use modern insulation, for the same temperature ranges as the military sleeping bags?

Or

Would you and your family be better served by buying wool blankets for extra warmth for your beds during a disaster?

Entrenching Tool (E-tool)

I forgot who it was, might be S.L.A. Marshall, during World War Two complained about soldiers being issued small shovels to dig fighting positions with. He thought that soldiers should carry full-sized shovels and picks to dig their protective/fighting positions.

During World War II, the military issued a folding shovel with a metal shovel and a wooden handle. After that war, the military issued an improved entrenching tool with a pick blade. Two decades later, and two wars, the military issued a folding all metal entrenching tool.

Yes, all three could be sharpened along the blades to be used to kill people. One story, from of the Grenada invasion, told of folks running out of ammo. Two soldiers were told 'No one passes. Hold this position.' They were given three rounds each. When the leader came back, there were five dead. The two soldiers, in their dead hands, held bloodied e-tools. No shoots were fired and no one had passed.

I personally like the improved entrenching tool, with the pick. It is versatile. I use it for landscaping, digging fire pits, and other digging chores when a full-size shovel won't do. It is heavy though. The folding all metal e-tool is lighter, but it has a habit of breaking. It breaks at the handle and shovel blade connection. Supposedly, the U.S. military fixed the problem by inserting a metal bar to beef up both folding points, supposedly.

So, which one?

I had an older soldier, when he saw my 'old-school' wood and metal improved e-tool, tell me that thing will break. It's better to have the all-metal entrenching tool.

I ended up carrying that thing for the next ten years; I still have it and use it, to this day. During those ten years, I saw over ten all-metal e-tools break.

So, if you are looking for light weight and won't be do heavy digging, such as foxholes or digging up deep caches, it might work for you. If you plan to dig deep, especially in rocky soil, you might want that extra heft of an improved entrenching tool with a pick.

Plus, do you really need an e-tool if you are staying in your home during/after a disaster? Won't a full-size shovel, or a garden shovel, be better for your purposes?

You decide.

Weapons

As preppers, if we start seeing a lot of this stuff, we need to leave, very quickly. Remember, we bug out during extreme emergencies. To another country if needed.

Rifles
M14 rifle
M16 rifle/M4 carbine

Machine Guns
M249 light machine gun
M240 machine gun
M2 machine gun

Grenade Launcher
M203 grenade launcher

Hand Grenades
M-67
M-8
M-18

Anti-Tank Rockets
M-72
AT-4

Landmines
M-16 Bounding Anti-personnel
M-18 Claymore
M-21

Lastly, when all is said and done, there is much more about military equipment because I primarily focused on just some of the common equipment of the United States military. Plus, foreign militarise have some good equipment, but I have learned that the United States usually has the best.

Really lastly, this is an overview of military equipment that a prepper may want to investigate. You do not need any of this gear to survive. There are many other options for the prepper, so you have to do the research and make a choice.

Remember, watch those opinions, even mine.

And before I go, remember, the military always buys from the lowest bidder. Should you?

Links:

Protective Equipment

Helemts:

Wikipedia - M1 Helmet
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1_Helmet

Wikipedia - PASGT: Helmet
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personnel_Armor_System_for_Ground_Troops#Helmet

Wikipedia - MICH: TC-200 Combat Helemt
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MICH_TC-2000_Combat_Helmet

Wikipedia - Lightweight Helmet
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightweight_Helmet

Operation Helmet - Military Combat Helmets
http://www.operation-helmet.org/helmets.html

Merriam-Webster - Shrapnel
http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/shrapnel

Vests:

Wikipedia - PASGT: Vest
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personnel_Armor_System_for_Ground_Troops#Vest

Vietnam Gear - M69 Flak Vest w/ Stiffeners
http://www.vietnamgear.com/kit.aspx?kit=22

Olive-Drab - Vietnam Flak Vest
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_body_armor_vietnam.php

Wikipedia - Ballistic Vest
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistic_vest
Note: has a chart listing the threat levels

Wikipedia - Interceptor Body Armor
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interceptor_body_armor

Time - How Safe Is the U.S. Army's Body Armor?
http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,1874956,00.html

Load Carrying Equipment

Olive-Drab - ALICE Load Carrying Equipment
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_alice.php

Wikipedia - ALICE
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All-purpose_Lightweight_Individual_Carrying_Equipment

Civilian Defense Force - ALICE Gear MODs 101
http://civiliandefenseforce.com/alicegearmods.html

Wikipedia - MOLLE
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOLLE_(military)

Military Photos - ALICE or MOLLE?
http://www.militaryphotos.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-39668.html

Packs

Olive-Drab - WW II Field Packs
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_ww2pack.php

Olive-Drab - U.S. Army Rucksack of World War II
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_mountain_rucksack.php

World War Two Gyrene - 782 Gear
http://www.ww2gyrene.org/782GEAR.htm
Note: I added this because of the bedroll article at Survival Blog

The Backpacker -
http://www.thebackpacker.com/gear/backpacks/u.s._army_alice_pack.php

1st Tactical Study Group (Airborne): Combat Reform Group - A Durable Rucksack for all Seasons
http://www.combatreform.org/rucksack.htm

Olive-Drab - Modular Lightweight Load Carrying Equipment (MOLLE)
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_molle_pack.php

Tentage

Olive-Drab - U.S. Army Tent: Shelter Half
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_shelter_half.php

Eureka - Military Tents
http://www.eurekamilitarytents.com/tents.html

Mountain Gear Surplus Sales - Home
http://www.armytents.com/

Night Vision

Wikipedia - Night Vision Device
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Night_vision_device

What a Country- AN/PVS-2 Night Vision Scope
http://whatacountry.com/anpvs-2nightvisionscope.aspx

JRH Enterprises - US PVS 2 Night vision rifle scope
http://www.jrhenterprises.com/product.sc?productId=187&categoryId=3

Wikipedia - AN/PVS-4
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/PVS-4

Federation of American Scientists - AN/PVS-4 Individual Weapon Night Sight
http://www.fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/land/an-pvs-4.htm

SPI Infrared - AN/PVS-4 Night Vision Weapon Sight
http://www.x20.org/nightvision/PVS4.htm

Global Security - AN/PVS-5 Night Vision Goggles
http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ground/an-pvs-5.htm

Night Vision Depot - AN/PVS-5C Dual Tube Night Vision Goggle
http://www.nvdepot.com/goggles/pvs5c.asp

Savvy Survivor.com - PVS-5 Night Vision Goggles
http://www.savvysurvivor.com/pvs5pages.htm

SPI Infrared - AN/PVS-7D Night Vision Goggles
http://www.x20.org/nightvision/pvs7.htm

Wikipedia - AN/PVS-14
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN/PVS-14

Sleeping Bags

Vietnam Gear - M1949 Mountain Sleeping Bag
http://www.vietnamgear.com/kit.aspx?kit=677

Vietnam Gear - Poncho Liner
http://www.vietnamgear.com/kit.aspx?kit=194

Olive Drab - Military Sleeping Bags
http://www.olive-drab.com/od_soldiers_gear_sleeping_bag.php

Total Survivalist Libertarian Rantfest - New Army Sleep System
http://tslrf.blogspot.com/2010/09/new-army-sleep-system.html

Entrenching Tools

Wikipedia - S.L.A. Marshall
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.L.A._Marshall

Weapons

Just see Wikipedia

On Patrol


Welcome Preppers and Survivalists,


photograph by
John Scott Rafoss

Welcome Preppers and Survivalists,

Over the next few days, at 4:30 pm, I will be posting an article titled "When You're On Patrol ..." from the quarterly publication "Special Warfare: Training the Special Operations NCO." The article appeared in the winter 1990 issue of the publication.

As you will see from the editor's note, this list has been around for over 40 years. It was recently, 20 years ago, updated for the current special operations non-commissioned officer (NCO) and his leaders.

Now, some of y'all are going to go all crazy on me and shout something like"Hey, I thought preppers were non-violent!" They might be, but the villains (I don't like using "bad guys" because you and your family are going to encounter men, women, and children that have ideas and intentions that don't include you and your family's continued survival as a top priority) may plan to kill you and your family.

Some other folks are going to ask "Aren't you being irresponsible publishing this super-secret military information?" Not really, the terrorists and enemy soldiers are taught this stuff by their trainers. They already know this stuff.

Plus, if you are planning to follow James Rawles advice and move to the boonies, you and your family are going to learn and practice this information because you, your family, and the neighbors are going to be running patrols. If you don't run patrols, from day one of the collapse, you and everybody you love might be toast.

Some different folks are going to go on about the militarization of prepping. Well, sorry to tell those folks, but the military has some pertinent information for the prepper and survivalist, and patrolling is one of those important subjects that we can learn from the military

Lastly, well almost lastly, I do have problems with publishing this information because there is the possibility that this information will be used against the folks that I love, but I believe that there are more "good" people than "bad" people on this world. Especially, if the "good" folks band together and kill the villains ; - )

Lastly, this information is not a magic talisman. There is no guarantee that you will survive using this information (or any other information provided on this blog), so be warned.

PS.
"Good" isn't an accurate term either. Because the "good" guys might show up at your door pointing a gun in your face asking for any spare food for the poor families down at the local church.


Leader Tips

• No individual or team can practice or train too much or too often.

• Teamwork is the key to success and will only come through constant training and rehearsal.

• While on a mission, minimize fatigue; tired men become careless.

• If you show confidence, your team will have confidence.

• Always have an alternate plan. Think ahead.

• If you lose your temper, it will effect your judgment. Keep cool.

• Don’t be afraid to take advice from your team members.

• Realism must be injected into all phases of training, such as zeroing weapons at targets in the jungle, using live training aids for prisoner-of-war snatch or ambush practice, etc.

• Conduct at least half of your training at night.

• Teams that have a good physical training program have fewer health problems.

• Have a pre-mission and post-mission checklist to ensure that nothing is left behind.

• Correct all personal, individual and team errors on the spot.

• Use tact when reprimanding your personnel, especially indigenous team members. If possible, take the man aside to criticize him. This enables him to react positively to the criticism, since he will not lose face, feel ridiculed or lose self-confidence.

• Conduct English classes for your indigenous personnel, especially interpreters. Conduct classes for your U.S. personnel in your indigenous team members’ language.

• Don’t set patterns in your operations.

• Never do the obvious.

• On patrol, stay alert at all times. You are never 100-percent safe until you are back home.

• Have team members write down tips and lessons learned, and collect and consolidate them at the end of each mission.

• Don’t arbitrarily make all “tips of the trade” your team SOP. Always consider METT-T (mission, enemy, terrain, troops and time available).

Notes:
1) All of these tips are sound advice. The hard part will be implementing them.

Uniform and Equipment Common to All

• Wear lightweight BDUs on operations: even when soaking wet at night, BDUs are remarkably “invisible” to night-vision goggles. OG-107 jungle fatigues, however, appear completely black when wet, and a man’s silhouette can be clearly and easily seen by an enemy using night-vision goggles.

• Don’t use luminous tape; it’s easily spotted at long distances with NVGs.

• Wear loose-fitting and un-tailored clothing on field operations. Tight-fitting clothing often tears or rips, allowing mosquitoes and leeches easy access to exposed parts of the body.

• Tuck your jacket into your pants. You can’t use the lower pockets because of your load-carrying equipment anyway, and in a contact, you can temporarily stuff expended magazines inside your shirt.

• Gloves will protect hands from thorns, poisonous plants and insect bites, provide camouflage and aid in holding a weapon when it heats up from firing. Aviator’s gloves work well.

• Sew in a section of VS-17 panel to cover the inside top of your field hat for use as an emergency daylight position marking signal to friendly aircraft. In the center of that, sew a 2”-by-2” piece of USAF “burn tape” for use as a nighttime position marking signal to AC-130 gunships (2” by 2” is the size recommended by the AC-130 low-light/night-television operators). (Note: 1)

• Sew the same signal pattern inside your fatigue shirt, since hats are easily lost in firefights or pursuit situations. (Note: 1)

• Do not hang clothing on green bamboo if you plan on wearing it afterward; the fuzz on the bamboo is just like itching powder. Of course, clothing should not be removed or hung-out on patrol. (Note: 2)

Notes:
1) The typical prepper/survivalist isn't going to have close-air support during a disaster, however; there is the possibility that you or your family will have to signal a search and rescue aircraft during and after a disaster.

2) Here in these United States, we don't have a lot of bamboo to hang your clothes on, however; the recommendation to keep your clothes on is a prudent idea during a disaster.

LCE/Ruck Tips

• Be sure that all snaps and buckles are taped. Do not use paper tape. (Note: 1)

• Always carry a sharp knife or bayonet on patrol.

• Always wear your load-carrying equipment buckled when not sleeping. If you’re wounded, your teammates can drag you by your LCE shoulder straps.

• For survival, each individual should carry a cut-down MRE in his pants cargo pocket, and one tube of bouillon cubes in the first-aid pouch on his LCE. One bouillon cube dissolved in one canteen of water will provide energy for one or two days. (Note: 2)

• Don’t use two-quart canteen covers to carry 30-round magazines. You can fit eight magazines in one, but once you take the first one out, the others rattle loudly and spill out easily. Use regular ammo pouches.

• Sew a long slim pocket on the side of your ruck to accommodate the long antenna, or use an accessory kit bag clipped and tied to the side of the ruck.

• Ensure that the snap link on your rucksack is snapped through the loop in the upper  portion of your rucksack-carrying straps or the frame, so you won’t lose it during exfil when you snap it on a ladder or extraction fast-rope. (Note: 3)

• Insect repellent leaks and spills easily, so put it in a zip-lock bag and isolate it from your other equipment in the rucksack. Also, squeeze air from the repellent container and screw the cap on firmly.

• Always use the water from canteens in or on your rucksack before using water in the canteens on your belt. This will ensure a supply of water should you ditch or lose your rucksack.

• Test the shoulder straps on the rucksack before packing it for patrol. Always carry some parachute cord to repair straps on patrol.

• Use a waterproof bag in the rucksack to protect equipment while on patrol. This is extremely important during the rainy season.

• Camouflage your rucksack with black spray paint. (Note: 4)

Notes:
1) Make sure the tape that you use is dull, not shiny like typical green military tape.

2) Do Not, Don't, Never put anything, besides water, in your canteen/water bottle. Putting Kool-Aid, Gatorade, bouillon cubes, sugar, and ... will gunk up your canteen. It is a pain in the butt to clean the inside of a canteen once its had something, besides water, in the canteen. If you want to add something to your water, mix it in a canteen cup then drink it from the canteen cup.

Do Not, Don't, Never put anything in a first-aid pouch but first-aid supplies. It's for first-aid supplies not food.

3) If for some reason you need to put a snap-link on your rucksack/backpack, you have to tape it down because the snap-link will rattle giving away your position.

4) Spray paint eats cloth, so spray painting a nylon rucksack will shorten the backpack's life span. Use earth-toned dyes instead.

Link:
Paula Burch - How To Hand Dye
http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/howtodye.shtml

Rit Dye - Color Formula Guide
http://www.ritdye.com/colorit_color_formula_guide


Weapons Tips

• Never assume that your weapon is clean enough on an operation. Clean your weapon daily. (Note: 1)

• Always carry rifle-cleaning equipment on operations; i.e., bore and chamber brushes, cleaning rag and patches, cleaning rod with handle and tip, and a small vial of weapons oil. A shaving brush is very useful. (Note: 2)

• When you fire your weapon, shoot low, particularly at night; ricochets will kill just as well, and most people hit the ground when shooting starts. (Note: 3)

• Use one magazine full of tracer during infiltration and exfiltration. If taken under fire during infil or exfil, the tracers can be used to identify enemy positions to friendly air support.

• The last three rounds in each magazine should be tracer to remind the firer that he needs a fresh magazine. Alternate: The last eight rounds are three tracer followed by five ball.

• Quietly replace the cartridge in the chamber of your weapon each morning. Condensation may cause a malfunction.

• Oil the selector switch on your weapon daily and work the switch back and forth, especially during the rainy season. This will prevent the common occurrence of a stuck switch.

• Always carry your weapon with the selector switch on “safe.” (Note: 4)

• Use a plastic muzzle cap or tape to keep water and dirt out of the barrel.

• To improve noise discipline, tape all sling swivels.

• Rig the jungle sling so it is easily adjustable (for easy transition from rappel/fast-rope to carry/fire).

• Tape a spare field dressing to the sling at the stock, using a single strip of wide cloth tape with a quick-release tab. (Note: 5)

• Check all magazines before going on an operation to ensure they are clean and properly loaded and that the springs are oiled and functioning. Magazine problems cause the majority of weapons malfunctions.

• Place magazines upside down in their pouches to keep out dirt and water.

• Do not retrieve your first expended magazine during contact; it will consume valuable time.

• If you use a PAQ-4 aiming light on an M-16A2 rifle, you must modify the hand guard to allow the thumb switch to travel far enough to activate the light. Using the serrated edge of your bayonet, file down the area under the thumb switch (between the eighth and 10th ribs from the slip ring) about one-quarter inch. This is not a problem on the M-16A2 carbine, because the hand guard is smaller.

Notes:
1) This daily cleaning is a quick cleaning usually it takes but a few minutes to wipe down your weapon, run a bore brush and patch through the barrel, and oil your weapon.

2) This is a continuation of #1 with a recommendation of what to carry. Plus, a shaving brush is used to quickly brush down your weapon, inside and out, this removes any stray dirt that could cause a malfunction.

Don't put oil on the shaving brush. It collects dirt. Plus, it puts too much oil on your weapon.

3) The first few times folks are shooting at people; they will aim high.

4) Duh!!!

5) Be careful, don't let the field dressing interfere with the use of your weapon.

M-203 Gunner Tips

• In dense jungle, carry a 3:1 ratio of buckshot to HE, with two star clusters and two star parachutes for signalling aircraft. (Note: 2)

• In the jungle, point and trail men should be M-203 gunners with buckshot in the chamber. (Note: 2)

• If you fire HE in the jungle at night, be ready to have it bounce off a tree limb right back at you and go off in your face. (Note: 2)

• Oil your M-203 with 30- or 40-weight motor oil, especially the trigger, safety housing and slide, due to rain and humidity in the jungle. (Note: 3)


SAW Gunner Tips

• Silence ammo in plastic drums by making inserts from tablet-back cardboard covered with acetate. Cut to fit two per drum.

• When moving, use a 30-round magazine in the SAW. Attach a drum once in position. (Note: 4)

• SAW drum pouches are tightly-fitted and tend to pop open when you drop into the prone; use cloth tape with quick-release tabs to prevent this. Two-quart canteen covers are acceptable substitutes.

Notes:
1) Folks, more likely then not, you will never have these weapons during a disaster (unless you're in the military) but there is a possibility during a total collapse that these weapons would be available for use by the typical prepper and survivalist.

2) Change jungle to dense woods for these United States.

3) Use regular weapons oil like you would on your rifle.

4) 30-round magazines are very unreliable when used in a SAW. Plus, why would you want to walk around with only 30-rounds when you can have 200-rounds ready to use?

Claymore Tips

• Claymores are factory-packed “backward”; i.e., to be emplaced from the firing position to the mine position, with the excess wire left at the mine. Correct by removing all the firing wire from the plastic spool, discard the spool, re-roll the wire in an “S” or figure-8 fashion, and replace it in the bag so the mine can be emplaced first and the wire laid back to the firing position. The clacker with circuit tester attached is pre-connected to the firing wire and stowed in the mine pouch. (Note: 2)

The unit commander must make the decision whether to prime the mine before departing on the mission or only to put the shipping plugs on the electric and non-electric blasting caps to speed priming during emplacement.

• Dual-prime each claymore for both electric and non-electric firing. The time fuse should be pre-cut for 30-, 60-, or 120-second delay, for pursuit or break-contact situations. However, the burn time on the fuse becomes undependable the longer the fuse is exposed to wet or humid conditions.

• Waterproof your non-electric firing systems.

• Carry the claymore in the rucksack so it’s immediately accessible; after breaking contact it can be quickly armed and emplaced on the back trail (even while it’s still in the ruck) to delay pursuers.

• Claymores placed around your position (observation post, ambush, remain-overnight, etc.), should be emplaced one at a time by two men, with one man emplacing the mine and the other standing guard.

• Never emplace a claymore in a position that prevents you from observing it. (Note: 3)

• Because you only emplace a claymore where you can observe it, if you are operating in dense jungle, you may want to consider cutting your firing wire in half, since you won’t use more than 50 feet or 15 meters of wire. This makes emplacement and recovery easier
and cuts weight. (Note: 4)

• Claymores should be emplaced so the blast parallels the team and the firing wire does not lead straight back to the team position. If the claymores are turned around by the enemy, they will not point at the team. (Note: 3)

• Determine in advance who will fire each claymore and who will give the command or signal to fire.


Grenade Tips

• Make continuous daily checks on all grenades when on patrol to ensure that the primers are not coming unscrewed.

• Do not bend the pins on the grenades flat. The rings are too hard to pull when needed. (Note: 5)

• Fold paper tape through the rings of grenades and tape the ring to the body of the grenade. The paper tape will tear for fast use, while plastic or cloth tape will not. It also keeps the ring open for your finger, stops noise and prevents snagging. (Note: 6)

• All team members should carry a mixture of fragmentation, CS and white-phosphorous grenades on their belts for the following reasons:

- Fragmentation grenades are good for inflicting casualties.

- CS grenades are ideal for stopping or slowing down enemy troops and dogs pursuing your team, and are effective in damp and wet weather, whereas CS powder will dissipate.

- WP grenades have a great psychological effect against enemy troops and can be used for the same purpose as CS grenades. The use of CS and WP at the same time will more than double their effectiveness.

• Thoroughly train and test your indigenous troops in grenade-throwing, particularly WP. Not all of them will be adept at baseball-style throwing. (Note: 7)

• Violet and red are the smoke colors most visible from the air; however, in dense jungle or wet weather, use WP to signal aircraft.

• Notify aircraft before signalling with WP; gunships or fighter-bombers may mistake it for a marking rocket indicating an enemy position, and attack you.

• Camouflage smoke, CS and WP grenades, using black or OD spray paint. (Note: 8)

• Smoke grenades should be carried in or on the pack and not on the LCE. You don’t fight with smoke grenades, and if you need one, 99 times out of 100 you will have time to get it from your pack.

• Each team should carry one thermite grenade for destruction of either friendly or enemy equipment.

• Do not carry rubber baseball-style CS grenades; they were designed for riot control on city streets and are inadequate in the jungle.

Notes:
1) Folks, more likely then not, you will never have these weapons during a disaster (unless you're in the military) but there is a possibility during a total collapse that these weapons would be available for use by the typical prepper/survivalist.

2) I think the military solved this problem, but I'm not sure.

Just in case, instead of discarding the plastic spool and re-rolling the wire in an “S” or figure-8, unwrap the firing wire from the spool then rewrap the firing wire back on the plastic spool. This will keep the firing wire from getting all tangled up if its re-rolled in an “S” or figure-8.

3) Very important because if you can't see it, someone may turn it around towards you and your family.

4) Don't cut the firing wire because cutting the wire might cause an electrical short then the claymore won't work

5) The pins are already a pain in the butt to pull out. Bending the pins will make it almost impossible to pull out when you need to.

Just so you know, using your teeth to pull the pin out of a grenade (like you see in the old war movies) might break your teeth.

6) Also add: Don't hang the grenade by its pull ring. The pin might pull out and the grenade will explode at your feet.

7) It's more like a throwing a football then a baseball

8) Now a days, they are already green. Only the top is coloured to indicate the colour of smoke the smoke grenade produces when ignited.


Communications Tips

• Commo is everyone’s responsibility, not just the commo sergeant’s. (Note: 2)

• Always inventory and inspect your radios, kit bags, secures and sensors before and after all missions. (Note: 3)

• Place a plastic cover over your PRC-77/KY-51 and wrap them in an additional waterproof bag.

• Pre-set frequencies on the PRC-77 so that a quick turn of the dials will put you on the desired frequency. This is especially helpful at night when you want to avoid a light.

• Carefully inspect your X-mode cable for bent pins and dirt in the female connectors.

• Take along secure hand-held radios with earphones and whisper mikes for internal in-position team commo during ambush and prisoner-of-war snatch missions. (Note: 4)

• Perform pre-mission radio checks:

- with your radio and secure packed in your ruck exactly the way you will carry them in the field;

- after your crypto has been loaded;

- with and without the secure hooked up;

- with your operational base, helicopters, fire support, the hatchet team, other teams operating adjacent to your area of operations, and your internal radios; (Note: 5)

- bending the X-mode cable while receiving/transmitting to check for excessive static and/or loss of commo.

• Before a mission, always place fresh batteries into your commo gear and sensors, especially the BA-1372 memory battery for the KY-57.

• Always carry spare PRC-77 and KY-57 batteries, but do not remove the spares from their plastic wrapping prior to use or they may lose power. (Note: 6)

• Carry the lithium BA-5598 batteries for the PRC-77; this cuts weight, and since the spare is in the battery cover, it speeds emergency replacement.

• Ensure the PRC-77 battery cover vent is operational, because of the gases produced by the lithium batteries.

• Ensure the cover vent is on the same side as the battery connector.

• After you put the battery in your TEMIG beacon, cycle the TEMIG to make sure it is “off” and not silently transmitting.

• Don’t try to weatherproof your hand mike with a plastic wrapper; water condenses on the inside anyway, the wrapper rustles loudly, and at night, it shines like a signal light when viewed through NVGs. (Note: 7)

• Always carry a spare hand mike in a waterproof bag.

• Don’t carry your spare hand mike where it might get crushed when you drop your ruck.

• Clean all contacts daily with the eraser end of a pencil.

• Waterproof your communications-electronics operating instructions, or CEOI, and authentication tables by laminating them with acetate or putting them in a plastic zip-lock bag.

• Constantly check your CEOI to ensure your authentication tables are folded open to the page showing the most current set. This will prevent dangerous delays when your AC-130 requests authentication, especially at night.

• Carry a single strand of claymore firing wire or WD-l cut to your operating frequency for use as a field expedient antenna. Secure one end (stripped of insulation) to the radio with an antenna base, then string the wire straight up to a branch (omni-directional), or
lay it on the ground in the direction of the receiving station (uni-directional). (Note: 8)

• Minimize radio traffic.

• Do not send “same” or “no change” when reporting team location. Always send your coordinates.

• Repeat grid coordinates sent to you to ensure accurate copy. (Note: 9)

• The operational base must avoid making unnecessary, unscheduled radio checks just because they haven’t heard from a team for a while. Be patient.

• Whisper into the hand mike while in the field. Exhale first, then speak, or your transmission will sound like a tire leaking air. To mask your voice, cup your hand over the hand-mike mouthpiece and your mouth. (Note: 10)

• Always remain calm and professional, no matter what happens. Screaming or speaking in emotional, angry or desperate tones will cause the operational base to doubt your judgment and the accuracy of whatever you’re saying. (Note: 11)

Notes:
1) A lot of the specific communications equipment will be unavailable to the typical prepper or survivalist, but these are good pointers for the equipment that you will have during a disaster.

2) Everybody needs to learn how to use all of the radios that you and your family have.

3) Duh!!!

4) Cellphones aren't secure. Neither are any radios that you can buy at Radio Shack.

5) Make sure everyone can talk to everyone else.

6) Always carry spare batteries, even on a "short run to the store"

7) Our radio guy would put the mike in a wool sock before wrapping it in the discarded plastic bag from the battery. This was pre-NVGs (Night-Vision Goggles)

8) I'll say it again. Everybody needs to learn how to use all of the radios that you and your family have this includes how to make antennas

9) If you're able, repeat everything from your notes to make sure you wrote it down correctly

10) Plus, most folks press the talk button after they have already been talking, so no one hears what they said at first.

11) Not really. It just makes you easier to understand and it's just expected by professionals.
Night-Vision Goggle Tips (NVG)

• At night, carry night-vision goggles in a claymore bag around your neck on your chest. This allows easy access and protects the NVGs from the elements. (Note: 1)

• Always carry a spare battery for your NVGs.

• When in an observation post at night, scan with NVGs for only a few moments every five minutes or so. If you scan continuously, you increase the chance of the enemy spotting your position (when two persons using NVGs in the passive mode look directly at each other, they will see glowing “cat-eyes”). (Note: 2)

• When moving at night, only every other man should wear his NVGs. Point and trail always wear NVGs.

• “Starlight” NVGs and thermal viewers complement each other, and should be used in combination; e.g., the point should wear PVS-5/7 NVGs, and the slack (the man behind the point) should use the thermal-imaging sight.

Notes:
1) This has changed for the military. They now have helmet mounts for the NVGs.

For us preppers/survivalists with older technology, we need to plan how to safely carry these expensive pieces of equipment.

2) If you use this technique, understand that your natural night vision will be ineffective for at least 30 minutes, every time, after you look through the night-vision goggles/sights.


On Patrol, ... A Warning

These last few days, I provided some tips on patrolling, the use of military weapons, communications, and night-vision goggles from a military publication. The information found in this publication is permitted to be distributed to nonmilitary folks (civilians), but the weapons, communications gear, and night-vision are restricted to members of the military (Note: 1)

So,

If anybody shows up at your home, workplace, friend's house, or where ever and offers to sell you some of this stuff, report them to the police because they're criminals, cops, feds, narcs, informants, or ... and they are trying to send you to prison. (Note: 2)

So, you have been warned. (Note: 3)

Notes:
1) Yes, I know that you and I can purchase M-16s, M-203s, M-60s, PRC-77s, PVS-5s, PVS-7s, PVC-14s, dummy grenades, smoke grenades, and a host of other expensive military equipment from proper and legal distributors and with the proper permits and licences, if required by law.

and

Yes, I also know that the Federal government has given/sold some of this military equipment to local and State police agencies. (Militarization of the Police)

2) I'm talking about the shady or illegal deals here. Not the "I personally know this guy who just bought the night-vision goggles from ATN and now he wants to sell them" kind'a deals.

3) In a total collapse, shot the dumb-f*ck and take his gear.

and

Remember, other folks might or will be thinking the same thing.


Other Articles, From GSIEP, You Might Be Interested In

GSIEP - Survival Vest

GSIEP - Military Skills: Rigging Your Gear: LBE
http://gsiep.blogspot.com/2011/03/military-skills-rigging-your-gear-lbe.html

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Combat Vests and Survival Vests




Before I begin, I want to review buying in a spiral for all the new folks to this blog.

Buying in a spiral allows you and your family to have well-rounded preps. Instead of unnecessarily concentrating on one prep, like firearms, you and your family buy in a different prep area every week or month. Let me give you an example. The first week, you buy a family-sized tent, shelter. The next week, you purchase and fill a few water containers, water. The third week, you buy an extra weeks worth of canned food, food. Next week, you buy a used .357 revolver, protection. The fifth week, you buy a first-aid kit, medical.

You're probably doing this, but here's where the spiral comes in.

The sixth week, you buy wool blankets, shelter again. The next week, you buy and fill more water containers, water again. The seventh week, you buy another extra week of food, food again. The eighth week, you buy 500 rounds of .38 special +P ammunition, protection again. The next week, you buy some trauma bandages, medical again.

The tenth week, you buy some blue tarps, shelter. Next, you buy a water filter, water. Next, another weeks worth of extra food. Next, another .357 revolver. Next, ...

You get the idea, so, you'll understand my next statement.

For most urban and suburban preppers, combat vests and survival vests will be some of the last things that you purchase. You need to concentrate on shelter, water, food, medical, guns and ammo then tactical gear.

With that said ...


When I was in these United States' Army, I wore TA-50 to carry my canteens, magazines for my rifle, sleeping bag, MREs, extra clothing, land mines, antitank rockets, and all the other stuff; we took to the field. Nowadays, soldiers wear MOLLE gear for tactical operations.

And,

Some preppers, especially recently discharged veterans, may want to use MOLLE gear.

First, The Woodsman's Kit


The Woodsman's Tactical Vest
(Front)
This is the front of the Woodsman's tactical vest. Looking at the vest, starting from the top left, is a 'sticky' shoulder pad for helping hold the butt of his rifle to his shoulder. Below that are three double magazine pouches, and below the magazine pouches is a drop leg holster for his .45.



On the right, starting from the top, are three pistol magazine pouches, and below that is an area of velcro (the soft side) that held a cross draw pistol holster when I first met the Woodsman. Below that is a magazine carrier for pistol magazines.

The Woodsman's Tactical Vest
(Back)
The back of the Woodsman's vest is mainly MOLLE webbing. As you can see he has a sheath knife on the vest's belt.

You can also see the adjustment straps to loosen and tighten the vest and the drop-leg holster and the drop leg magazine pouches.

Before I met the Woodsman, his plan was to carry a 9mm pistol in the drop leg holster, a .45 pistol in the cross draw holster, carry an AR-15 in his hands, a 12 gauge shotgun in a scabbard attached to the back of his vest, and a .270 rifle with a scope slung across his back.

That's a lot of fire power, too much firepower to carry.

First, I advised him to get rid of one of the pistols because a pistol is used for self-protection and to 'fight' your way back to your rifle. He didn't need two pistols, so the 9mm pistol is going to his wife.

The 12 gauge shotgun is going into his front hall closet, so he and his wife have something to answer the door with, if needed.

and

The .270 rifle is going back into his gun safe, so it's protected from villains and ready for next hunting season.

Another problem, he was having was properly carrying his rifle at 'the ready' with the cross draw holster in place, he decided to carry his .45 pistol and its magazines in the drop leg holster and magazine pouch and ditch the cross draw holster.

and,

He was also having another problem with the double rifle magazine pouches digging into his underarm, if he carried two magazines in each pouch.

I suggested he hack his vest (since he's not carrying a cross draw holster, anymore) by adding a set of rifle magazine pouches where the velcro patch is at. This will give some balance to the vest. Plus, the Woodsman will be able to carry six rifle magazine comfortably across his abdomen, and if need be, he can add another six magazines by placing two magazine in each pouch.

Another addition, I suggested, was adding two canteens to the back, attached to the belt. The two canteens would be carried in canteen pouches with one also holding a canteen cup.

The last two hacks I recommended was to replace the pistol magazine pouch on the left shoulder with a pouch big enough to hold a couple of combat dressings, and to add a butt-pack to the back of his vest.

Lastly, you will notice that black sucks as a tactical color. The Woodsman is going to tie-dye the vest to a better colour. Hopefully he'll let me take pictures after his vest hack.

Now, ...

What does the Woodsman carry in his vest?

First, the Woodsman's vest is an almost 'pure' combat vest because he only carries magazines for his pistol and his rifle. He has four magazines for his pistol and six magazines for his rifle. Woodsman also carries a sheath knife on his vest.

Bear Grylls
Survival Series Ultimate Knife
This is where his vest becomes a survival vest. The Woodsman carries a Bear Grylls Survival Series Ultimate Knife. (That's the knife that you see in the rear picture).

The knife has a fire steel, located on the front of the sheath, and a whistle. On the back, the sheath has a knife sharpening stone and brief instructions for signaling and communicating with rescuers.

Lastly, for the Woodsman, he carries a backpack, but you will have to wait for another article

Second, Jungle G's Vest

Jungle G's Vest
(Front)
Jungle G's vest is a standard U.S. Army MOLLE rig. It's official name is something like MOLLE Fighting Load Tactical Vest or some such military-speak.

As you can see the vest is in the desert camoflauge patteren. It has six magazine pouches, three on each side, Each magazine pouch can hold two rifle magazines. A small pouch, just underneath the "US" on the vest, holds a military compass.

Jungle G's Vest
(Rear)

The rear of the vest has two canteen covers (Jungle G didn't bring his canteens to the photo shoot) and a medium "butt" pack.

All of the gear attached to the MOLLE vest uses plastic malice clips or the MOLLE attachment webbing.

In this picture, you will also notice a drag handle at the very top of the MOLLE. A drag handle allows someone to easily drag a wounded comrade, out of immediate danger, if needed.

Jungle G's vest is also a combat vest, but it has more survival gear then the Woodsman's vest.

Let's take a look.

First, just like the Woodsman, Jungle G carries his knife on the vest's belt. Jungle G's knife is a Mora knife. The knife is about seven inches long with a three inch stainless steel blade. Jungle G suggests stainless steel blades because they don't rust.

The butt pack is what seems to turn this combat vest into a survival vest. The main compartment holds a rolled up poncho liner and poncho. The outer pockets hold an emergency space blanket, to be used as shelter; a small pack of stick matches, wrapped in plastic wrap; some Ramen noodles, hot cocco, and trail mix bars, for food; and what looks like mechanic hand cleaner.

Yep, you guessed it. It's not hand cleaner. It's a bottle of hand sanitizer.

Jungle G took an old bottle, of proper size and shape, and filled it with very flammable hand sanitizer. If he needs a fire, he squirts a little one something flammable and lights with a match.

Yeah, that sounds weird, but it guarantees the fire will light, a big deal in a survival situation.

Needless to say...

That's it for now. I'm headed to bed.

Link:
Wikipedia - All-purpose Lightweight Individual Carrying Equipme
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All-purpose_Lightweight_Individual_Carrying_Equipment

Wikipedia - MOLLE
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOLLE_(military)

NCO Support - U.S. Army TA-50 Pictures for CIF Turn-in
http://www.ncosupport.com/files/ta50-pictures1.pdf

Emdom USA - MALICE Clip: Installation Instructions
http://www.emdomusa.com/MALICE-Instruction.html

Wikipedia - More Knife
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mora_knife

Federal Aviation Administration: Fire Safety Branch - Flammability Test of Alcohol-Based Hand Sanitizer
http://www.fire.tc.faa.gov/pdf/TN10-19.pdf