Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Chapter Four: Shelter
Wilderness Shelters
Suppose, you have to leave your home, or you are stranded in the wilderness. If you are stranded, you might have to improvise a shelter. Do you have a tarp? How about some string? You could improvise a tarp shelter.
If you don't have these items, you can build a dugout shelter or a debris shelter. Out in winter's cold, you might need to build a snow shelter. If you need something more permanent, you could build a log cabin.
I know, I know. You and your family will never need these shelters because you don't go into the woods, but just in case. Plus, what happens if you home is damaged?
Emergency Home Repairs
You will need to keep a few blue tarps on hand to cover any leaks in the roof, a few sheets of plywood with some double-headed nails to protect windows, and a roll of clear plastic sheeting to cover broken windows also helps. Don't forget the hammer, staples, and the staple gun.
Just so you know, the craftsman stapler called the "Easy Fire" seems to be easier than the traditional or older model of staplers to use.
Chemical Safe Room
Having clear plastic sheeting also allows you to form a safe room from a chemical spill or attack. During the first Gulf War (in the early ‘90s), the Israelis showed us how to make a safe room for chemical attacks by using the highest room in our homes. Rooms with no exterior opening such as windows or doors, don't forget skylights, are best. For most people, this is a hallway bathroom.
If you plan to have a safe room from chemical attack, you can pre-cut the plastic sheeting to cover all of the openings in the room, doors, windows, and heating vents. You don't have to cover the sink and bathtub faucets in the bathroom. Once you cut the plastic, all you need is duct tape to secure the plastic around the opening and seal the room.
If you don't pre-cut the plastic sheeting, you will need scissors. A small supply of towels or rags, to help seal under the door, will also help to stop or slow down the chemicals from entering your chemical attack safe room.
If you shelter in a bathroom, you could use the water faucets and the toilet during your brief stay. A radio for information and card games, coloring books, or other low-activity games to help keep the children occupied are also important.
If possible, pre-position all of these supplies in the room you will use as a safe room during an event.
Remember those opinions, these United States Centers for Disease Control (CDC) has a recommendation for using a master bedroom as your shelter in place for a chemical emergency. If you have some kids and a few pets, it sounds like a good idea. Plus, there is more air to breath.
As I mentioned earlier, RAND has a report on some scenarios that might happen during a biological, chemical and radiological attack. Download the .pdf document, save it, read it, think about the report then act.
Nuclear War Shelters
With more countries possessing nuclear weapons and having the means to launch these weapons, the possibility of a nuclear attack increases. I'm talking about the "big one." The 10 to 100 nuclear weapons coming in from Russia, China, Britain, France, India, Israel, or someone else.
To hear some people talk, you would think you need to buy a $2,000,000 former intercontinental ballistic missile (ICBM) site to survive a nuclear war. Nope, you don't even need to buy the $260,000 hardened telecommunications site.
You just need to obtain a copy of Nuclear War Survival Skills by Cresson Kearny. The book is available for free as a .pdf document; additionally, you can view the book online, if, you don’t want to purchase a copy.
Be warned, there is this effect from an exploding atomic bomb called electromagnetic pulse (EMP); it may destroy computers and other electronics, so you might need to buy a hardcopy of the book from Amazon.com or the folks in the references listed at the “Prepper: Surviving the Tough Times Ahead” blog.
If you have more money, you could buy a shelter. There are two types of nuclear war shelters, a blast shelter and a fallout shelter.
A blast shelter can be a fallout shelter, but a fallout shelter can't be a blast shelter. This has to do with the effects of a nuclear weapon. The nuclear fallout will travel farther than the blast. So, if you are within the blast radius, a fallout shelter will not protect you from the nuclear bomb’s over-pressurization effects.
If you understood that statement, cool. If you didn't, make sure you read Nuclear War Survival Skills by Cresson Kearny.
Shelter Builders and Do-It-Yourself
There are three shelter builders that I know of, Radius Engineering, Safecastle, and Utah Shelter Systems additionally; there may be local builders in your area. Radius produces fiberglass shelters. Safecastle builds square or rectangle steel shelters, and Utah Shelter Systems builds round steel shelters. All three will be expensive, over $15,000
A mini blast or fallout shelter can also be manufactured locally using corrugated steel pipes, if you are on a tight budget, and you want to prepare for a nuclear war. Any company with the ability to weld galvanized corrugated steel culvert pipe can manufacture these bare bones shelters.
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Mini Blast and Fallout Shelter
by
KI4U
An alternative is to build your own shelter, but be careful using these United States’ government nuclear war shelter plans, from the Office of Civil Defense and FEMA, that you may find on the internet. The shelter designers failed to properly size the ventilation systems; the failure, the ventilation openings are too small, or the system requires power to operate properly.
Another source for nuclear war shelter plans is the Oregon Institute of Science and Medicine. They sale plans for a steel tank shelter. OISM fixed the design flaws found in earlier government shelter plans.
The ultimate do-it-yourself resource is Nuclear War Survival Skills by Cresson Kearny. The book has many designs that can be constructed a few days before an anticipated nuclear attack using shovels and material available to the average family.
Possible Nuclear War Targets
Please remember, I am talking about a large nuclear attack, involving the use of nuclear weapons by countries that can deliver more than 10 nuclear bombs, not a terrorist attack. This large-scale nuclear attack would probably target strategic nuclear targets such as nuclear missile silos in the upper Midwest, the bomber base in Missouri, nuclear submarine bases in the states of Washington and Georgia, and large military bases in Virginia, California, and elsewhere.
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Possible Targets for a Large Scale Nuclear Attack
source
Federal Emergency Management Agency (F.E.M.A.)
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Projected Fallout Patterns after Two-Weeks
source
Federal Emergency Management Agency (F.E.M.A.)
As you can see, these United States would be quickly covered in fallout from a large-scale nuclear attack. For a more detailed, state-by-state, breakdown of possible nuclear targets the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has a publication titled FEMA-196 “Risks and Hazards: A State by State Guide,” so you can do more research on possible nuclear war targets near your home.
Tents
OK, enough nuclear war "WE ARE ALL GOING TO DIE!!!" stuff. Let’s talk about tents.
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Danish Army ‘Pup’ Tent
by
Joost J. Bakker from Wikicommons
There are many types of tents. The US military's 1940s era canvas pup tent is good if you have a nylon tarp or poncho to put over the tent to protect it during prolonged periods of rain. Remember, The US military still uses the canvas pup tent for a reason. It is inexpensive and lasts for decades in storage.
But wait until mosquito season. You will need a mosquito net to keep insects out of the tent.
You can also tie a poncho liner or blanket to the inside of the tent to create a tent liner. The middle of the poncho liner is tied to the tent poles (the six green wooden poles that get put together to make two longer poles) and the four corners are tied to the tent pegs (nine orange or green metal stakes). Basically, you make a tent inside the canvas pup tent. This is a good idea in cold weather because you don't bump up against the cold canvas, in the morning.
Another modification is to make four long poles, out of branches, to replace the two center poles. Two of the four poles are tied together creating an "A" frame. The top of the "A" is placed in the hole normally used by the tent poles. The other set of two long poles are centered in the other hole used for the tent poles. This opens up the inside of the pup tent for easier movement in the tent.
If you are going to stay in one place for a long time, you will need to put a can, rock, or other similar object under the bottom of the tent poles. This keeps the poles from sinking or digging into the ground, preventing the tent from sagging.
Remember, the canvas pup tent is a two man tent; only you, your partner, and a small amount of gear will be able to fit inside the tent. The majority of your gear will have to stay outside, so you will need another nylon tarp to protect your equipment, supplies, and other items during the rainy season.
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U.S. Soldiers Transport a Patient during a Training Exercise
by
Tech. Sgt. Joselito Aribuabo, U.S. Air Force
The next types of military tents are called Hex, GP Mediums, GP Larges, Command Posts, and many other names; these are the large military canvas and vinyl tents. They are big, some costing more than $1000, shipping not included. Needless to say, check around for the cheapest price.
Cabela's, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro are a few places to find modern civilian tents. If you purchase a big tent, you will want cots.
Cots keep you and your family off the ground. The best example of a durable cot is the US military nylon cot. If you are going to use a cot for any length of time in the winter, you will need a foam-insulated sleeping pad or shake out your sleeping bag, when you wake up and before you go to bed, every day, to help keep your backside warm.
Therm-a-rest, Cabela's store brand, a US military sleeping pad, a few layers of cardboard or newspaper, or even some salvaged foam padding will provide insulation when the sleeping bag’s insulation becomes compressed, giving you a cold back, from lying in it all night.
As you and your family search for a place to purchase a cot for sleeping, you will also find cot trees. For families on a budget, a cot tree can be improvised out of tree branches or dole rods and 2X4s. The cot pockets work well, too.
If you want an inexpensive cot pocket; get your husband to sew up a few using some type of heavy cloth like denim or thick nylon. If you create them, you can customize the cot pockets to your design. I use zip ties and double-sided velcro to keep the cot pockets in place and make it easy to secure it to the cot.
And, this leads to my next point.
Travel Trailers
There are a group of people that suggest buying a small travel trailer as an alternative shelter. If disaster strikes, you and the family temporarily move into the trailer. Some supplies are pre-positioned in the trailer, so all you have to do is evacuate your home.
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Travel Trailer being pulled by a Pick-up Truck
by
Photographer's Mate 1st Class Christopher M. McCoin
The travel trailers for preppers group mentions that the trailer can be parked by the house for storage, if the homeowner’s association by-laws allow it. During an event, the family can stay in the trailer and discourage looters.
This technique of providing shelter for your family might not work during the aftermath of a tornado, hurricane, or windstorm. The house and the trailer could both be wiped out, at the same time. Some people respond to this shortcoming by renting a spot in a secure storage facility, but this adds additional costs to the solution.
These travel trailers can be simple or elaborate. The simple trailers have a pop-up roof, a small toilet, sink, stove and built in beds. The more elaborate travel trailers, some people call them 5th wheels, have showers, refrigerators, air conditioners, and other amenities not found in a smaller model.
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Collapsible (Pop-Up) Travel Trailer
by
Korey99 from Wikicommons
Notice, I did not call one cheaper than the other. There is a possibility to get one of these trailers for free. Check Craig's List and ask friends and relatives for contacts that might have one.
We had a family member buy an older Airstream travel trailer on E-bay and complete a total-gut and rehab. It was a project for people handy with tools.
There is another group of people that have converted school buses to travel homes. There are many sources and references on the internet, some free, some not. Once again, another project for handy people or people who know handy people.
Needless to say, having a travel home or a converted bus is more convenient then a travel trailer. No hooking up the trailer to the truck; everything is already in the travel home, ready to go.
Now where do you go, during a disaster, with this travel trailer or motor home? Well, to a friend’s or family member’s home, of course. But what happens if they have been affected or can’t take your family in?
Junk Land
There is another group of survivalist advocating buying a small piece of rural property, “junk land” they call it. The property is cheap enough and small enough to own with only one or two years of payments. The land is also outside of city limits in a rural area with little or few zoning or building codes.
The idea it to place a travel trailer on the property, so you have a place to stay. Even in a severe economic crisis, you have a roof over your head. If you ignore my advice about hiding your caches, you can also cache important supplies, such as food, water filters, medical supplies, and other equipment on the ‘junk’ land.
Native Shelters
Sometimes, it seems, we go around and around in circles and wind-up in the same place this is kind of true for this chapter because I am next going to discuss native shelters which dugout shelters, debris huts, and snow shelters are variations.
As school children, we learned about the Inuit’s snow shelters called igloos, but there are many more native shelters, such as tipis, yurts, goahti, and kohte. These shelters are used by native people from many parts of the world for long-term living. I have included some links for you to start your research at this chapter's 'Additional Resources' page, if you’re interested.
Along with native shelters, we are also seeing families creating alternative shelters that might be useful for the prepper.
Alternative Shelters
Straw bale homes and earthships are two of the alternative shelters I know about. Just like it sounds, straw bale homes are made from rectangular bales of straw stacked like bricks to form exterior walls. The stacked straw bales are covered with a fire-proof outer covering such as stucco.
Earthships use packed soil in tires to form their outer walls. The earthship builder also recycles a variety of material to complete their family’s home. You will need to do more research on “Earthships,” if you are interested in this building method.
Another alternative shelter, of interest to the prepper, is an underground home.
Underground Homes
Most peoples’ first thought of an underground home is similar to the Peden family’s converted missile silo in Dover, Kansas; it is a popular misconception. An underground homes, when properly built, looks just like a conventional home, on the inside; they are light-filled and airy. On the outside, you will see well designed landscape covering the roof and some of the outside walls.
Needless to say, just like nuclear war shelters, travel trailers and junk land, and native shelters; you and your family will have to do more research. Probably, the best place to start, for underground homes, is Davis Caves.
In closing, as you can see, the topic of shelters is a long and varied one. You need to think about the type of shelter you have, the type you and your family may use during an emergency, and practice building and repairing these shelters; you have decided to use.
Appendix A: Common Mistakes
The number one mistake made by preppers is failing to understand that shelter is usually the number one priority during most emergencies and disasters. Like the 3 to 5 rule says ‘you will only survive 3 to 5 hours without proper shelter.’ If you live in the high Northern or Southern latitudes, you might have only 3 to 5 minutes before lack of proper shelter starts to kill you and your family during the winter.
The next biggest mistake is forgetting to install a smoke alarm, with battery back-up, on each level of your home, even if you rent. For folks using natural gas, propane, kerosene, or burning wood to cook with and heat your home, your family needs to install a carbon monoxide detector, with battery back-up, too.
Another common mistake is thinking; you and your family don’t need to learn how to improvise shelters, such as the tarp shelter, debris hut, or a lean-to. Just look at the urban and suburban survivors after the Haiti earthquake. They had to quickly set-up shelters made from blankets and bed sheets to protect their families from the tropical sun and damp night air. When the rainy season started, Haitian families had to improvise better and more effective shelter to protect themselves and their families.
Additionally, you and your family can have a fun afternoon, on a sunny day, practicing setting up ‘tent forts,’ improvised shelters, or wilderness shelters. You and your partner can challenge your children, and yourselves, to construct these tent forts and other shelters to protect yourselves from cold, rain, or snow. Plus, if you home loses electricity, you can use these tent forts to stay warm inside your home.
Another common mistake is failing to practice using your tent. During certain events, you will probably need to quickly set-up your shelter to prevent your family from getting wet or cold. Plus, you need to know if any additional items are needed; such as tent floors, rain flies, and additional tarps for equipment and supplies; before the event.
The last common mistake, even I made, was failing to have emergency repair supplies for our home. A recent windstorm lifted the roof shingles off our house. I had to pay someone an extreme amount of money to do a simple emergency repair.
Needless to say, this last common mistake (buying emergency home repair supplies) could be put off, until other higher priorities are completed, if you have quality homeowners insurance and the phone number of a reliable, local handyman or home repair person.
Appendix B: Wilderness Shelters
Debris Hut
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Center pole with first layer of branches (1) and Completed Debris Hut (2)
source
U.S. Army FM 21-76
Just like it sounds, a debris hut uses the leaves and small branches lying on the ground in the forest for building material. To create a debris shelter, you tie a long pole or branch to a tree or two sticks, creating a tripod with one long leg. After you have created the tripod, you pile a thick layer of leaves on the ground, under the long pole to act as insulation, from the cold ground. Next you weave a series of smaller branches to create a grid on the two long sides of the shelter. The grid is then covered with all the leaves and other forest debris that you can find in the immediate area.
To use this shelter, you crawl into the small opening made by the tree or two sticks tied together. As you crawl into the shelter, make sure the pile of leaves, lying on the ground, are under your body to provide insulation from the cold ground. If you have any extra leaves, you can pile them in front of the opening to create a wind block.
Warning: Do Not, Don’t, Never use a match, candle or open flame in or around a debris hut. The open flame will catch the shelter on fire. Think bonfire!
Lean-To
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Lean-to Shelter with a Fire Reflector
source
U.S. Army FM 21-76
A lean-to shelter is similar to a debris hut. A long pole or branch is tied to two trees then a grid is created with smaller branches, on one side. The grid is covered with any available material such as leaves, branches, plastic sheeting, or other material to create a water-proof roof.
The lean-to shelter can be heated with a fire, outside of the shelter, to keep you and your family warm. If you build a fire, I recommend a fire reflector, to increase the amount of heat directed into the lean-to shelter.
Building a Fire Reflector
To build a fire reflector, you need to create a solid wall near the back of the fire. (Not too close, the fire reflector may catch fire) You can use rocks, thick branches, or other material to create the reflector. Rocks are piled one on top of another, or dirt is piled up to create a berm. Branches will require you to create a wall, like the one in the foreground of the above illustration.
Tarp Shelter or Poncho Shelter
Tarp shelters are limited by your imagination and the number of tarps you have to work with.
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Single Tarp Shelter
source
U.S. Army FM 21-76
If you have only one tarp, you can create a lean-to by tying some string between two trees. The tarp is then tied to the string creating a curtain. To complete the shelter, the tarp is pulled away from the string, and the tarp is held in place by large rocks or anchored to the ground with sticks through the grommets creating a lean-to.
A variation is finding the tarp’s middle and placing the tarp over the string tied between two trees. The two sides are stacked down by sticks or held apart by large rocks creating an almost traditional tent-like structure.
Another variation is using a poncho as an improvised shelter. The poncho’s hood is tied closed using the drawstring then the poncho hood’s draw string is tied to a tree branch creating a conical-shaped shelter, similar to a teepee.
Woodsman’s Shelter
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Woodsman’s Shelter
source
U.S. Army FM 21-76
Another variation of the tarp shelter is called a woodsman’s shelter. Instead of two trees, only a long pole is needed, similar to a debris hut. One end of the pole or branch is attached to a tree. And the other end rests on the ground. A tarp is placed over the pole then rocks are used to hold the tarp down.
When using a woodsman’s shelter, the person crawls or slides into the shelter feet first. The person’s head sticks out of the larger opening.
Snow Shelters
There are a variety of snow shelters that can be constructed; however they have a few similarities. The first similarity is that the shelters are just big enough to get into and barely move around because these small shelters are heated with your body heat or a small flame, like a candle. Next, all improvised shelters will have a layer of material to insulate you and your family from the cold ground. Lastly, you have to have snow. Depending on how deep the snow is will determine which snow shelter is best.
Snow Trench
Just like it sounds, a 3 to 4 foot deep trench is dug into the snow. The trench is just a little wider than your body, and the trench is about two to three feet longer than your height. This additional length will act as an entrance for the snow trench shelter.
Next, stout branches, longer than the width of the trench are laid over the top of the trench. Smaller branches are layered on top of the bigger branches to create a roof for the trench then the layers of branches are covered with a thick layer of snow. The layer of snow and branches will act as insulation to keep you warm. Lastly, you need to add a thick layer of insulation, such as pine brows, leaves, or an insulated sleeping pad to the floor of the snow trench. This layer of insulation protects you from the cold ground.
Snow Mound Shelter
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Quinzy (snow mound shelter)
by
Ssavoie from Wikicommons
If the snow isn’t deep enough to build a snow trench, a snow mound shelter can be constructed by piling the snow into a large mound. As the snow is piled up, the snow is compacted by walking on it with snow shoes or pressing it down with your hands, a snow shovel, or other large flat object. Once the mound is created and compressed, the center is dug out. Needless to say, dry, powdery snow, that doesn’t compact, is unsuitable for a snow cave.
If you have dry and powder-like snow, a variation of the snow mound shelter can be built, a debris hut covered with snow. The shelter is started just like the debris hut, but, instead of using fallen leaves and branches for the shelter’s last layer, snow is piled on top of a tight grid made of small branches. Needless to say, you will need to build this shelter in a protected spot, to prevent the dry, powder-like snow from blowing off the branches.
Igloo
There are several methods for building an igloo. One method starts out cutting the blocks of snow and stacking them around the hole as you cut the blocks. Another method, you and your family move the blocks a short distance and build the igloo on a flat snowy surface. Either way, you and your family can only build an igloo with snow that can be cut into thick blocks.
Either way, I will cover the basics of building an igloo.
First, you need to have enough packed snow to build an igloo. If you don’t have enough snow, you and your family will need to improvise a different shelter. Next, choose the location for your igloo.
After you have chosen the location of your igloo, you need to dig out the floor of the shelter. The floor will have a higher and lower part. The higher part will serve as sleeping platforms, and the lower part will serve as the entrance for the igloo and allow cold air to ‘sink’ making the igloo warmer.
The igloo’s entrance should point away from the wind to prevent cold air blowing into the snow shelter.
Third, you and your family cut blocks from the snow. These blocks should be ‘just’ right, thick enough to stay together, small enough to properly handle. Depending on whom you read, will determine if the first blocks should be rectangles, small squares, or wedges.
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Igloo Spiral
by
Anuskafm from Wikicommons
As your family cuts the snow blocks, the blocks are laid in a circle, big enough for everyone in the family to lie down. You don’t want the igloo too big because it will be difficult to keep warm. You also don’t want the snow shelter too small because folks will step on each other.
As the second rows of blocks are laid on top of the first row, the snow blocks should begin to tilt inward.
You can cause the blocks to tilt inwards two ways. The first method, cut the snow into rectangular blocks, lay the block on the bottom snow block then wedge snow under the outside of the block causing the block to tilt inward.
The second method is to cut a small bevel in the bottom of the block to cause it to tilt inward.
Either way, as the other rows of blocks are laid on the bottom row, they also tilt inward forming a dome. All of the rows of snow blocks are also offset, so there is a staggered seam. This staggered seam will prevent one side of the igloo from easily collapsing.
The last snow block is cut to fit the very top of the igloo; some people will say it is a cylinder, and others will say a pentagon shaped block of snow. Either shape, it seals the top of the igloo and acts as a ‘rest’ for the walls, preventing the igloo’s wall from collapsing inward, too.
Once the last snow block is placed in the igloo, snow is packed into any holes and opening between the blocks, sealing the igloo.
You’re almost finished.
Next, you and your family will need to build a tunnel that extends from the igloo and covers the entrance that prevents wind from easily entering the igloo.
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Igloo Sideview Diagram
by
Menchi from Wikicommons
To enter the igloo, crawl down and through the tunnel. Once you’re in the igloo, around the bottom of the walls, dig a shallow trench for melted water to drain away from the sleeping platform.
Lastly, carefully poke a hole through the top of the igloo to act as a vent to create air circulation because you don’t want to suffocate.
Appendix C: Making an Improvised Safe Room for a Chemical Weapons Attack
There are numerous ways for a chemical agent to enter your body, through your skin, ingesting the chemical by eating it, or by breathing it. A chemical safe room reduces the chance a chemical agent will enter your body from breathing it and getting the chemical agent on your skin.
To create an improvised safe room, you need to follow a few steps.
First, you need to choose the room your family will use for a safe room. This room should be on the highest floor possible because most chemical agents are heavier than air. This room should also have no windows. Plus, the room should have a toilet and water. An inside bathroom, such as a hall bathroom, is best. If you have a large family, you may want to use a master bedroom suite with only one or two windows, as your safe room.
Never use the basement as your safe room from chemical weapons attack because most chemical weapons are heavier than air.
Next, you need to acquire some items. You will need two or three rolls of ‘duct’ tape, plastic sheeting (10 mil is the best) that is wide enough and long enough to cover the doors and windows, scissors or other cutting instrument (to cut the plastic sheeting), and a towel. If your safe room doesn’t have a toilet, you may also need to acquire one. You may also want to purchase some very-low activity games for your family, water and some food for the safe room because you and your family may be in the safe room for many hours. I almost forgot. You will need to purchase a weather alert radio, if you don’t already have one, so you can receive the attack warning and the “All Clear” signal.
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Duct Tape, 1 mil. Plastic Tarp, and a Knife
Once you have the tape and plastic; you can pre-cut the plastic sheeting to cover the windows and doors this will allow your family to quickly convert your windowless bathroom into a safe room. Needless to say, you need to store these pre-cut sheets of plastic and duct tape in your chemical weapons attack safe room.
Converting a Room into a Chemical Weapons Attack Safe Room
First, using the duct tape, tape the joint between the window jamb and the window sash, of the closed window. Make sure you do the top and bottom, too. Next, you need to tape around the window casing and window sill. This sounds like overkill, but you are trying to prevent contaminated air from entering the room.
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Bathroom Window Taped and Covered with Plastic
Second, if you didn’t already, cut the plastic sheeting to fit over the doors and any windows. Don’t forget any ceiling vents, too. The cut plastic sheeting should extend a few inches over the window sill and window frame. Next, tape the plastic sheeting to the wall, do the same thing for the ceiling vent, if you are in a bathroom. Remember, the plastic sheeting’s top, bottom, and the sides are taped to the wall.
Bathroom Door Taped and Sealed with Plastic
Third, if an attack is happening or it’s imminent, seal the door just like the window. Tape the closed door to the door jamb then tape around the door’s casing, make sure you tape the top and bottom. Be warned, the bottom of the door may take more than one strip of tape to seal the bottom of the door. Next, cover the door with plastic sheeting and tape to the wall and floor. If you have carpeting, you may need to jam a towel or other fabric under the door instead of taping the plastic to the floor.
If an attack is possible, but not imminent leave the door unsealed. When you get the chemical weapons attack warning, quickly enter the safe room and seal the door. Put your protective masks on and quietly wait for the “All Clear” signal.
Almost lastly, if you and your family plan to improvise a chemical weapons attack safe room, you need to buy the supplies in advance. Why? Because everyone else will be rushing to the store to purchase the much needed plastic sheeting and duct tape, if there is the threat of a chemical weapons attack.
Lastly, preparing a permanent chemical weapons attack safe room is beyond the scope of this book, but I have provided some links, at Prepper: Surviving the Tough Time Ahead, for manufactures of products you might be interested in, if you and your family have a desire to build a permanent chemical weapons attack safe room.
Appendix D: City, Town, or Country
Whether to live in town or the country has been debated for over seven decades. I remember reading a short story by Isaac Asimov, the science-fiction writer, published in the 1950s. In the story, he writes of how these United States could prevent a nuclear war. His main idea, the US would need to forcibly resettle most of the people living in the major cities to rural areas of the country.
In the late '70s, Mel Tappan starts to advocate for survivalists to move to small towns in the United States.
Since then, survival writers have been telling everyone to move to isolated retreats in the vast unpopulated states of Idaho, Montana, Wyoming, and elsewhere.
In all of my readings, I have only found one or two written works where the author advocates staying in the city. To be truthful, it is only recently that the peak-oil preppers have started seriously questioning the popular philosophy of moving to a wilderness retreat. Heck, one writer, John Michael Greer of “The Archdruid Report” has moved to a former mill town in Maryland because he believes fuel prices will increase so much that ‘newer’ towns built around easy access to automobiles may become uninhabitable.
Either way, you have to make the decision which one is going to be best for you and your family. Please make sure you include your family in this decision.
Country or Small Town
Lack of or shortage of basic service providers
* none or only one or two mechanics, doctors, and other skilled occupations
Need to be a Generalist
* have to be able to do-it-yourself or it probably won't get done
Limited Job Opportunities
* no need for two or three of most occupations
Long Distances from Neighbors and Family
* no neighborhood watch if you can't see your neighbor's home
Higher Prices for Everything
* businesses don't buy in bulk, increased shipping expenses, less competition
Last to Receive Help after an Emergency
* Who would you help first? The city with 50,000 people or the town with 3,000 people or the rural home at the end of the electrical line?
Cliques
* not a local, from the big city, or wrong religion
Large Town or City
Centralization of Needed Services
* no individual water wells or septic tanks or trash burning, allowed
Greater Government Intrusion
* building codes, permits, and other government paperwork
Lack of Food Production
* no farms within walking distance, no livestock allowed within city limits, no large garden plots
Cliques
* not from the neighborhood, from the country, or wrong ethnic group
Crime
You will notice that I didn't mention anything about the crime rate because crime is a problem in the city, town, and country.
Think about it.
If one percent of the population are criminals, in an area of 1000 people, there would be 10 criminals running around the vast countryside stealing from you and your, not so close, neighbors. Plus, there are less good folks running around, doing chores, shopping, or sight-seeing, so less people to witness a crime.
In a city of 10,000 people, there would be 100 criminals. This size group could possibly organize and cause great damage or chaos in one area of the city. However, there would be more folks to prevent this from happening.
Lastly, ...
To finish up, I would like to add that both the town and the country have many benefits and problems, but you have to decide which one is going to be best for you and your family. Just make sure you include your partner and family in this decision.
Appendix E: Your Home and Crime
Crime is going to be an issue during some events. For most events the common anti-crime measures will be adequate, so let us look at a few of them
First, you and your partner need to make sure your family, including you, lock exterior doors and windows with quality locks. Some folks would advocate replacing some of the door’s short hinge screws with longer, three-inch, screws. You also need to concentrate on your garage door, not the big outside door, the little door that goes into your home.
Why?
Villains are able to open then close the garage door allowing them to work on opening the smaller garage door (in our home, we call it the kitchen door) without being observed by passersby.
Next, you and your family should install heavy curtains to conceal your family’s expensive stuff, such as LCD t.v., stereo, computers, and other luxury goods. You can also apply security or privacy film to your home’s windows to make the windows harder to break and limit a potential burglar’s view.
Before I continue, I would like to point out the difference between a professional theft and an amateur. A professional thief doesn’t like to break glass windows or doors, to enter your home. They prefer to find a method that people can’t see from the road or front of your house. A professional thief will also ‘case’ your home trying to find out when your family is away from home. An amateur thief will usually be a spur of the moment crime. The amateur will see something of value in the window, in the yard, or in the garage then immediately act.
Third, you and your family need to secure the outside of your home. To do this, your family makes sure tools, such as ladders, shovels, and other tools that can be used to break into your home are put away. After your family does that (don’t forget the bicycles and toys, too), you and your partner need to make sure that your homes landscaping doesn’t provide concealment for criminals. Again, some folks would recommend planting rose bushes or other thorny plants under your home’s windows.
Almost lastly, have someone actively watch your home when you’re away on business or vacation this means picking up the mail, every day; putting out the trash, even if it is ‘fake’ trash, such as crumbled up newspapers or cardboard in plastic bags, and putting some of their trash in your trash can then rolling it out to the curb; and turning on and off lights in your home, at night.
Lastly, don’t give keys to tradesmen (carpenters, plumbers, electrician, and others) and other people you don’t know.
Oh, I almost forgot.
When you buy a new home, replace or rekey all of the outside door locks, immediately.
Now, there is some ‘bad’ news.
During some events, these common measures are going to be inadequate, so you and your family must modify your home and your attitude, before the event. Let’s look at these measures.
First, you and your family need to complete all the common anti-crime measures then you are going to further harden your home, this means installing exterior steel doors with deadbolts and replacing all of the hinge screws and latch plate screws with 3-inch screws. You will also need to install security bars over all of the first floor windows.
Another measure is to install motion activated lights with cameras covering all sides of your home. Of course, the outside camera should have a wireless or hidden recorder. You may want to install an interior camera, so the police will have evidence to convict any villains, if they are apprehended.
Third is to install an alarm. Some folks have already taken this step because their neighborhoods are already troubled. The alarm should have a loud claxon or loudspeaker to alert neighbors and scare away any perpetrators. Of course, an alarm company will be the best source for all of the options that might be available to your family.
On the same note as security cameras, you and your family may want to install a video camera, so you can identify anyone at your door. Remember, you must keep the door locked until the person or people at the door are positively identified, even the police, so you may want to install an intercom, too.
A quick story:
It seems a group of researchers were doing a study about children and anti-crime measures. The researchers gave a class to some children; say five to nine years old, about not opening the door to strangers.
After the class, the researchers asked a little boy: ‘A man comes to the door saying he has lost his dog. Do you open the door for him?’ The little boy correctly replied, ‘No.’ the researchers asked: “What if he said it was a little dog? Again the little boy replied, ‘No’ then the little boy quickly added ‘I would open the door to help the man if it was a little kitten because even a little dog can find its way home.’
Remember, you and your partner must have the children involved in these measures.
Fifth, you and your family must implement a layered approach to your family’s home security. You do this by drawing two imaginary circles; one around your home and the other around your yard, creating a perimeter. We have already talked a little about the first circle; the one around your home.
The second circle, around your yard, is cleared of bushes and other landscaping that someone may use to hide from view. Remove items that could be used to break into your home, like ladders and tools, and remove landscaping that villains could seek cover, if you or your family is ever shooting at them.
In the second circle, you add a fence (or wall, if it’s that bad). The fence; yes, even in the front yard; is another barrier to prevent criminals from entering your yard. If you have a driveway, you will need to install an automatic gate. The automatic gate keeps villains from bypassing the fence. The gate also allows you to enter a secure place before getting out of your automobile.
Lastly, you might want to install an alarm system that will work during a power outage. For some folks this might mean buying a small dog. Since, you are looking for something to give your family advance warning, you don’t need a big dog. Plus, a small dog eats very little, making the little dog easy to provide for during tough times.
Appendix F: Being a Refugee
Most people will agree becoming a refugee during an event is a very poor idea, but what happens when your home has been destroyed by fire, tornado, war, or other reasons.
Where do you go? Who do you stay with?
Can you leave your home? Is it safe to move?
Can you stay on your property? Is it safe to stay?
How about a local hotel or motel? What about neighbors, family, or close friends?
Do they know you might show up? What happens if they were affected by the event?
How about out-of-state family and friends? Did you preposition some supplies such as shoes, clothing, and other critical items in a cache?
Can you even leave the state? What about your job?
Lastly, is there Red Cross or other emergency shelters available?
In a large disaster, organized shelters may not be available for the first three to five days after a disaster. Are you able to hold on that long?
Many questions for you and your family to answer. Below are some of my family's answers, my partner and I came up with.
Routes To and From Home
Using PACE, we pre-identified four routes to and from our home. We identified hazards that needed to be avoided and anticipated hazards that might occur during a specific event like an earthquake, chemical spill, or traffic accident.
This hit home twice. Once when there was a fire in the area. The fire trucks blocked one of the routes keeping us from getting home. We had to pull out the local street maps to find a different way home.
There wasn't one. Yep, we didn't have a map.
Now, we keep a local street map, state maps from our state and surrounding states, and a national atlas in our cars.
Some people would say to buy new maps every time they come out. I have found; if we get new maps whenever we find free or low-cost state maps and buy new local maps when the old maps are really outdated, we are adequately prepared.
We also drive our alternate routes, every once in a while, to see what is going on in the area of the route. With this recent stimulus package, there has been a lot of roadwork, so make sure you check your routes to and from home.
The second time, we had trouble, was when we had severe local storms with some flooding. The flooding wrecked one culvert, closing the road. Temporarily, flooded another road, and trees were blown down closing another road.
We decided to stay home. If we had needed to leave, we could have walked out or used the chain saw to cut our way clear, with the neighbors' help.
Our Jobs and the Children’s Schooling
My partner and I try to save up vacation and sick days, so we can have a cushion for family emergencies. We try and keep ten or more sick days for each of us. During a family emergency, such as a house fire, medical emergency, and other family event, both of our employers would understand about our situation. We also have an emergency fund to cover unexpected financial difficulties.
During a regional emergency, such as a large earthquake, flu epidemic or other larger scale event, would be different. We both have public sector jobs. I would be required to immediately report for work to help the recovery efforts, during some events. My partner would be able to stay home, until after the event. Of course, our children would stay home and we would continue their studies, as best we could.
Needless to say, my partner and I have talked about some of the situations in our threat analysis that would require us to stay home. Since our children are older, we feel, one of us could leave home, if the situation was safe. If there was wide spread panic and chaos, we would both stay home and pay the price later.
Staying with Family or Friends
As an extended family, we have talked about having to evacuate. We have agreed to put up with each other for two-weeks during an emergency. Two weeks would give government organizations and insurance companies more than enough time to start rescue and recovery operations. Of course, I would suggest pre-position supplies such as clothing to decrease the need to pack or go back home to get things. I figure a wooden box, 4 feet long, 2 feet wide, and 2 feet tall, would hold enough clothes, shoes, and other critical items for a few days, without washing, for a family of four
Another option is steel drums. I have been using open-head steel drums as storage containers for extra blankets and extra clothing, after a mouse got into our house, for friends and family that might show up with nothing but the clothes on their back.
I find almost new clothes at swap meets, garage sales, and relief society stores. I stock new underwear because most people will reject used panties or briefs. I also buy extra coats, hats, gloves, and sweaters in earth tones because of my threat analysis.
Make sure you check with expected guest for allergies to wool and ask the ladies to send you slightly used bras, to place in the cache.
Staying in an Emergency Shelter
I have done some reading and had a little experience staying in a medium-sized camp with a group of people, so here are my opinions.
First, get your back up against a wall and find several escape routes out of the area. I say this because being up against a wall gives you one less route for trouble to approach. The several escape routes will allow you and your family to leave, quickly if needed.
Remember, fires happen at shelters, too.
You have probably heard about "Safety in Numbers" so form an impromptu group, if you need to. You can do this by getting like-minded families to sleep together in the same area. This allows responsible teens and adults to watch each other's stuff and younger family members.
Safety in numbers also includes moving around and visiting others. Always move in groups of two and three, four at the maximum. Remember, children never go to the bathroom without an adult or an older, responsible teen.
Women and men should also always travel together. Yes, for protection but also to give the guys a "softer" look. Which looks more threatening: Four guys walking together or two guys and two gals? Yes, you can imagine a particular skin color.
About that visiting, make an effort to talk to other people. You want to find out what they know about the situation. Confirm those rumors, too.
Third, understand that the shelter staff are people, too. Treat them with kindness and respect. Talk to them, make a connection with them, and if possible give them a hand. Also understand the shelter staff may have different priorities then you and your family have.
Lastly, find a happy medium between being too far from the bathrooms and too close to the bathrooms. They begin to smell after a few days. Oh, make sure to try and get your own roll of toilet paper for each member of the family.
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